Build a Better Dust Trap

I'm looking to improve the dust collection on my contractor saw and have been looking for ideas. I so far have found these:
http://www.woodmagazine.com/wood/story.jhtml?storyid=/templatedata/wood/story/data/360.xml
http://home.pacbell.net/jdismuk/sawdust.html
http://home.earthlink.net/~kvaughn65/dust_enclosure.jpg
What I would really like is something that allows for movement without removal. I tried this one with little success:
http://www.newwoodworker.com/jetdust.html
Currently I have a huge box around the entire motor assembly attached to the bottom of my outfeed table. It is probably not a goo idea to starve the motor of fresh air this way so I am going to change it. Anyone come across any better ideas?
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Why change it? I don't have any dust collection on my contractor saw at the moment, but will be adding it as soon as I get a cyclone. I plan on doing exactly what you have done. It seems like the easiest and best solution.
I intend to leave the the height and angle adjustment slots open so air CAN travel through, and close off the bottom and enclose the motor.
I'm not sure how 800 or so cfm is going to starve the motor of fresh air.
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my solution is similar to the 2nd ref (Dizzy)
every saw will be different
i have the delta contractor from about 8 years ago
i fiddled with a back cover for hours to finally come up with a 2 part system; a upper and lower cover with cutouts for the belt (elongated to account for blade height adj) and cutouts for the motor mount. i did not try to accomodate blade tilt. Like Dizzy I basically have subscribed to the logic that I will rarely tilt the blade, and when I do I will remove the covers and sacrifice the enclosed space. But for 90% or better of the time I'll have a tightly sealed unit.
I use a 6" port which is about 28 sq inches of area. Roughly I need to allow 28 sq inches of open area to supply the incoming air. Like Dizzy I stuffed strofoam into the side of my saw and with the back cover it's pretty selaed. The only holes I have open are in the front - tilt allowance slot for the height crank and the open space between top and enclosure and misc cracks/holes in the bottom and back. And of course the slot in the throatplate.
Use 6" sewer and drain and use 6" ports. see bill penz's site if you question why or just do it and you will not be disappointed!!
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wrote in

My idea is to leave it like it is, but that's probably not what you're looking for.
What are you using for a dust collector? When I put that cheapo $150 Harbor Freight DC under my saw with a standard TS dust hood, it took all the dust away without having to close off the motor side. What I now want is a way to collect the dust from the TOP of the table and I'll have to rig up an overarm guard for that.
But there ain't no dust ex caping from underneath that saw, motor shroud or not. How's come you guys need to do that?
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Harbor
or
My experiance was the same. Delta contractors saw, Horrible Freight $150 dust collector. Put a 4" collector connection at the bottem of the saw, between the upper portion of the TS and the stand. Left the ALL the openings alone, read open. It does a really good job. The only way to improve it would be over arm collection. Greg
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I'm using a homemade 30 gallon 'cyclone' powered by a shop vac. I was surprised at how well this works using a flexible 4" dryer hose and a rubermaid can.
Maybe If I bought a real DC this wouldn't be an issue but a one-car garage shop that needs to house lawn tools, mechanics tools, outside toys, gardening toys, etc. doesn't have room for more stuff. Besides, I need more tools before I need a real DC.
"can cyclone" is cheap and easy:
' TS Vac ______| |_______| |_____ | _/ / | | | | _____/ | | |
Just put a 4" dryer elbow thru the lid and put the vac hole behind the elbow. All that ends up in the vac is very fine powder in the filter and the trash can fills up quick.
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http://www.woodmagazine.com/wood/story.jhtml?storyid=/templatedata/wood/story/data/360.xml
I have a Delta contractor saw. Delta has an accessory plate that goes under the saw and a 4" connector. Then I made a back that covers about 3/4 of the rear opening. Notches for the belt and the motor support. It catches 99% of the dust that would come out the bottom. An overarm would get the rest but I've not done anything about that.
I've posted a picture on ABPW
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What is ABPW ?
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alt.binaries.pictures.woodworking
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The following article by Sandor Nagszalanczy, the author of "Connecting Dust Collectors To Table Saws" would suggest that _if_ you have a dust collection device (not a shop vac) you shouldn't be all that concerned about the open back.
http://www.woodcraft.com/articles.aspx?articleid@7&refcode IN01RL
With that being said, I actually like the split panel approach shown in the "Dizzy's Shop" article you provided. But if I were to fabricate something, I think I'd be pretty happy with some sort of compromise like maybe blocking off the static areas that are never invaded byt the belt or the arbor. There is some logic to the school of thought that says you have to allow for some airflow, and in this case, I could see where the "vacumn" and subsequent airflow direction being created by a decent dust collection system would probably preclude any significant sawdust escape.
Mike
On 4 Jan 2005 12:25:32 -0800, "Nunya Biznas"

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