BLO or Shellac for wooden jigs et al?

What's a better finish for wooden jigs and shop fixtures?
A BLO-type finish or a Shellac-type finish?
Picking two which are easy to apply and, more important, easy to repair.
What about Danish Oil?
Thanx
Charles
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For shop use, I always use shellac. It dries much faster, and offers more protection. Danish oil could be anything, but if a varnish/oil it will take much longer to dry, even longer to cure. Shellac is also easy to touch up as needed. GerryG
On Thu, 12 Aug 2004 21:43:25 GMT, "U-CDK_CHARLES\\Charles" <"Charles

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what I've used with some success is paste floor wax, for hardwood/laminate floors, it's easy, tough and if it's damaged it's really easy to repair GerryG wrote:

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I'll agree with that. As another wrote, what you use depends on both what's needed, and how long the jig is to be used. I've got a well used can of similar wax here. So it's shellac, wax, and wb poly I end up using. The wb poly is resistant to some stuff the shellac isn't, and dries pretty fast. GerryG
wrote:

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You put a finish on shop jigs?
How about both BLO and shellac?
--
Chris Richmond | I don't speak for Intel & vise versa

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On Thu, 12 Aug 2004 21:43:25 GMT, "U-CDK_CHARLES\\Charles" <"Charles

finish? on a jig? why?
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snipped-for-privacy@thanks.com wrote:

One reason I can think of is to keep glue squeeze-out from bonding the part to it.
--
--John
Reply to jclarke at ae tee tee global dot net
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On Thu, 12 Aug 2004 16:20:32 -0700, snipped-for-privacy@thanks.com wrote:

My jigs are MDF, and I live in the West of England. If I don't wax them, they grow barnacles.
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Humidity?
Alex
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wrote:

This week it's monsoons. I've had to lend the workshop dehumidifier to help dry a neighbour's shop out after flooding.
Anyone got any gopherwood ?
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If it is a one time use, I agree. Jigs or templates that will be used repeatedly get poly or shellac. Keeps them clean if nothing else. Dust wipes off easier.
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Most of my templates are Masonite or 'Whiteboard'. As a matter of course, the sheets get a coat, or two, of Shellac {'Clear Seal' UNwaxed} before they are even cut. This allows me to 'cleanly' glue the pattern to the surface. After the pattern is cut, the exposed edges are also given the shellac treatment.
If the template is a 'Drawing' one {1/8 in material}- the shellac is all I use. If it is a 'Router' one - an additional coat {or two} of water-based poly is given to the edges.
If a jig is something more than a scrap of '2x for spacing, etc., and 'requires' the use of 'Baltic Birch' type material, then it certainly warrants a bit of protection. I would shellac if I needed it 'NOW' !! - or both if I could wait. In addition, it gives a nice surface to either wipe down with wax - for slipperiness, or attaching some sort of 'anti-slip' material when a firm hold is desired.
Regards & Good Luck, Ron Magen Backyard Boatshop
SNIP Jigs or templates that will be used repeatedly get poly or shellac.
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My Vote: Shellac.
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On Thu, 12 Aug 2004 21:43:25 GMT, "U-CDK_CHARLES\\Charles" <"Charles
Whatever I can reach, have a lot of, and is cheap. <G>
I've used shellac, polyurethane, lacquer, paint, but in most cases, nothing.
I make jigs as I need them. Therefore, I'm in too much of a hurry to apply a finish, as I need to use the jig to make something else. If it's something that'll get a lot of use, I might finish it later. Most get some wax on the moving parts or where glue might stick, and that's it.
Some folks enjoy making jigs for the sake of making jigs, I don't.
Barry
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