Best TS for dust collection

I am replacing my older (guessing pre 1950s, but really have no idea) Unisaw with a new tablesaw, mainly for better dust collection.
My saw has no motor cover, no sloping plate in the cabinet, a louvered front access door, a 6x6" hole in the back of the cabinet, as well as the assorted openings around the adjustment handwheels. So adding dust collection would be a major undertaking, and chances of success pretty low.
The question is: what is the experience with dust collection on different table saw models? I have experience with newer (1990) unisaws and the Dewalt, but not many other models. Your help is appreciated!
PS: I am (probably) going to be using a cyclone, most likely one of the preconfigured Oneida packages.
Matthew
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My tablesaw has more holes in it than that and I my dust collector works pretty good. Seems to me to be an extreme reason to replace a Unisaw, no mater what age! Greg

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The space I work in is about 10x20 -- and with the table saw centrally located it covers everything with dust. This is also the space I do finish work in, so I end up spending a lot of time cleaning -- which is a waste of time, not to mention the crud in the nose :(
I currently own a homemade cyclone, tho, which is VERY effective on my planer, and jointer, and shaper. You give me hope that the Unisaw may be "collectible" (pun intended, assuredly) -- any advice on that? Above table, below table? Seems to me most of the dust should be headed down, as that is the direction the blade cuts... so the initial guess was to just hook the collector to the cabinet, hence the question about the holes.
Matthew

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If you use a zero clearance insert, a large portion of the dust is going to be above the table and cabinet collection will do no good. A good overblade guard with excellent dust collection will help a lot and it doesn't require that you replace your saw. I'm so obsessive compulsive that I build a separate dust collection nozzle independent of the blade guard. Its not for most people, but it works better than most setups for dust collection.
Bob
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agree with you in that it helps... BUT I have to disagree with your terminology concerning the LARGE amount of sawdust that ends up on the table top IF you are using a Zero Clearance insert...
SOME YES... LARGE AMOUNT NO....
Getting anal with the fence alignment can even reduce the above table dust to almost nothing...
Bob Griffiths
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Ok, I'm confused. How will finely adjusting the fence alignment reduce the dust? My experience with improperly adjusted fences suggests there may be some burning and/or a slightly wider kerf cut than normal, but not a great increase in dust.
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wrote:

I'm also interested in the answer.
Barry
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My guess is that if the fence is correctly aligned, the back of the blade tracks **exactly** the cut made by the front, so no material is removed, and no dust generated. If the fence isn't aligned, the back of the blade removes material, which gets kicked up into your face to remind you to align the fence... :)
Still, any case-hardening or stress in the wood will cause the board itself not to remain straight, making the discussion a moot point.
Matthew
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On Sat, 18 Dec 2004 21:08:05 -0600, "Matthew"

Honestly you are correct,.....
I used to have my fence slightly off set away from the blade at the rear and I did get a lot more saw dust on the top of the table...
Since I adjusted the fence to be almost dead on parallel to the blade (Almost because I can not get it any closer) I get very very little sawdust on top of the table ...
As far as internal stress in the wood goes..That can be a problem without a doubt ...
I normally work with Walnut and do not run into this problem very much BUT if I am ripping PINE I get frustrated and give thanks to the "splitter" gods ...almost every single time...
I will admit that on my overhead guard I moved the DC port from the rear of the guard to the front .. and that I run a 1 1/4 inch hose from the blade guard to a shop vac and use my DC to handle inside the cabinet...
Bob Griffiths
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One of the benefits of a cabinet saw over a contractor saw. It might seem like a moot point, but it's a big plus in keeping a tidy shop.
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I can only tell you what happened with my saw when I added a ZCI, even with the fence aligned. So it just goes to show there is no absolute statement about all tablesaws.
Bob
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wrote:

TIA. -- Igor
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Sure. I've got it documented on a web page.
http://www.anneldavis.com/bobandanne/table%20saw%20dust%20collection.htm
Bob
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IMHO, dust collection is not that good of a sole criteria to select a table saw, or to replace one, especially if its a vintage Unisaw. I am not that familiar with the older Unisaws, and they might not be dust friendly, but can it be retrofitted with a sloped floor, cover etc.?
The main products I want from a table saw are precision, reliability, safety and things like that. Beyond that I'll try to make dust collection work. Don't get me wrong. I do believe that dust collection is an important factor but I don't think it overrides the craft, itself.
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is it located :~)
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