Best Saber Saw Blade for 1.5" Maple Bench Top?

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wrote:

I've never had any trouble with my PC690. I have the 'D' handle base and it's been a very good hand-held tool. The 3-HP monsters are good in tables but too much to handle, IMO.

As Lew suggests, just put a sharp bit in it and go easy.
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The cuts for the ornamentation in this table were made with this sabre saw and the blades shown. http://picasaweb.google.com/contrarian32/20100212SabreSaw #
No splinters. *very* little sanding required.
Max
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wrote

Excellent. I just picked up a pack to T101BR blades, which are very similar.
Doug White
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On 2/12/10 8:29 PM, Doug White wrote:

I was going to suggest a reverse cut blade, but didn't know how much experience you have with a jigsaw.
Normal, up-cut blades will pull the saw down tight against the surface of whatever you're cutting. Reverse blades will push the saw up, away from the surface. It can really catch you off guard. Make sure to push down on the saw when running.
--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
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Good advice. Another caution: It's easy to push the saw to one side or the other while cutting, causing the blade to bend and you end up with an angled cut. I used to wonder why it was happening to me and realized that in attempting to follow a line, instead of "steering" the saw I tended to push it slightly side ways. "Steer" the saw by moving the tail end.
Max (I hope that makes sense)
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On 2/12/10 9:14 PM, Max wrote:

Makes perfect sense. There should be less tendency for an angled cut with these blades. IIRC, down-cut blades are thicker than normal to prevent bowing/bending because the stress is in the push stroke.
--

-MIKE-

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wrote

I just fired up my new Bosch saw with the T101BR blades for the first time. The maple bench top will have to wait until next weekend, but I used the saw on some Melamine laminate shelves this afternoon.
WOW! The saw is fantastic, and the blades are amazing. I could very easily cut with far greater precision than I ever imagined possible with a saber saw. The noise & vibration were much less than with my ancient Black & Decker. The "clean" blades worked great, with almost zero chip- out on the thin Melamine.
I can see this combination being used for all sorts of things.
Doug White
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The first time I used my Bosch I had a similar feeling. ;-) My previous sabre saw was a Crapsman scrolling saw that couldn't cut cardboard straight. What a nightmare. The first job I used my Bosch on was to cut out the bottom of a steel chassis for work. I expected to take a ride on the thing but instead it cut the steel like it was cardboard. It cuts straight, too. ;-)
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I don't know who makes them but the Bosch blades I've used have consistently been the best.
--

-MIKE-

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I have also had good results with Lennox blades.
Max
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I bet they're made by the same company.
--

-MIKE-

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It would be more helpful, and save our time, if you just posted your financial particulars. that way we could help you make good FINANCIAL tool decisions as well - maybe even a whole new shop to go with the new bench!
shelly
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On Sat, 13 Mar 2010 20:13:06 -0800 (PST), the infamous snipped-for-privacy@stny.rr.com scrawled the following:

Crowbars everywhere are rejoicing (and wallets cowering) over your suggestion here, Shelly.
-- No matter how cynical you are, it is impossible to keep up. --Lily Tomlin
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On 2/12/10 2:29 PM, Doug White wrote:

I wouldn't worry about getting it super close. 1/8-1/4" should be fine. In my experience, any router with a decent straight bit can easily cut 1/2 the radius in one pass. If you have a 1/2" chuck and 1/2" bit, 1/4" will be butter, even in maple that deep.
If you're concerned with tear-out, cut from the bottom.
--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
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Doug White wrote:

I'd go with the T101DP, T144DP, T344DP (note--the "P" matters). The thinner blades can wander a bit in angle in thick material, that one is designed to be stiff enough to not have that problem. Beyond that, get a 5 or 10 piece blade assortment and a 3 piece assortment and experiment and you'll get an idea what the different blades do.

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: Anyone care to help whittle this down?
Bosch introducd a ne line in 2008 (one of many review links is below), and they really are the best blades by far I've ever used. Really clean cuts, top and bottom.
http://www.newwoodworker.com/reviews/bt308brvu.html
-- Ady Barss
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aioe.org:

get a blade w/lotsa teeth, and go slowly. Put a piece of plywood under the bench to avoid tearout on the bottom. get a 3" blade
shelly
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ditto... the b+d will never cut 1.5 inches perpendicular - the bottom of the cut will be wavy.
bosch for saw and blade is the way to go.
shelly
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I have the 18v DeWalt jigsaw and use the Bosch blades. It's one fine combination.
--
Nonny
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I am very happy with my $20 recip saw from good ol' Harbor freight.. Put a decent blade in it, like a dewalt or something, and give your jig saw a break.. YMWV    

mac
Please remove splinters before emailing
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