Bending Door Hinges?

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"Jay R" wrote in message

You quoted my post instead of asking the OP, and I can't tell you that since I'm not there.
He asked about "bending" hinges" ... that's the only issue I responded to.

Maybe ... but that said, adding "lamination to the trim" would not fix any door "alignment issues" I've ever seen in the building business, but there's always a first time ...
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Easier still, simply shim the hinge. Put cardboard between the door jam and the hinge. Use the Yellow Legal Pad backing type cardboard. By using 1 to 4 shims on each hinge you can also take out sag pretty accurately.
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Agreed. I use playing cards for small needs.
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-Mike-
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wrote:

I always used to stick a nailset in between the hinge leaves and then close the door until the gap got right.
Quick and dirty old carpenter's trick.
Tom (dirty old carpenter - not quick)
Regards, Tom.
Thos. J. Watson - Cabinetmaker http://home.comcast.net/~tjwatson1 / tjwatson1ATcomcastDOTnet
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Body work trick as well. Were finesse does not work, force does.
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-Mike-
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"Mike Marlow" wrote in message

Knew I'd seen a "commercial" version of the dirty old carpenter's trick. :)
http://www.patentstorm.us/patents/6450003/description.html
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You're not trying to center the door in the frame, are you? The hinge side gap is usually smaller for a reason.
R
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Hinge side has virtually no gap and binds a little... while the strike side has almost 1/4". But please explain why the hinge side gap should be smaller--assuming there is enough room on the strike side for the door to swing shut.
Cheers, Shawn
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Because the hinge side doesn't have to have clearance for the swinging edge of the door to swish past. Hinge side gap results from not mortising the hinges deep enough (a bad idea, because those hinge edges are putting significant load on the mortise edges, you want ALL the hinge buried in wood).
If strike side gap is 1/4", I'd suggest removing the trim from the strike side, then fitting new wood wedges between the stud and the frame, shrinking the door opening. The trim goes back and covers up the wedges, and it's a tight door again.
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.
And what is the head jamb doing during all that? It's not shrinking in length...
R
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The hinge side gap does not change with changes in the seasonal cycle. I'm not sure where you are and what the humidity and temperature swings are like, but you should adjust doors only when you know where in the yearly expansion cycle you are (assuming wood doors). If you adjust a door without taking into account where in the cycle it is, you are very likely going to be revisiting the problem later in the year when the door starts binding.
You need to insert some cardboard shims behind the jamb side hinge leaves. That will take care of the hinge side binding and shift the door in the opening so that the objectionable gap is less objectionable.
A strike side gap of 3/16" or less is acceptable and does not warrant extreme measures. There are other things in your house that probably require attention and deserve some of your time.
R
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Whoa.... buddy.... get on his ass!
Robert
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wrote:

I was going to suggest he post some pictures of his house so I could start making the punch list... ;)
R
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wrote:

Possibly the hinge is binding. When I install hinges, instead of a flat mortise I cut a beveled mortise to insure no binding. It's easier/faster to use a sharp chisel than a router. You might get by with cutting a slightly deeper mortise.
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Allrighty then!
Robert
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