Hinge side has virtually no gap and binds a little... while the strike side has almost 1/4". But please explain why the hinge side gap should be smaller--assuming there is enough room on the strike side for the door to swing shut.
OK... cogitated on this one a bit, but to no end. Thinking through how a bullet is swaged threw me off my game, and it already went somewhere it didn't need to go.
Let's see... you take a medium hard lead bullet, (jacketed with a press) and lube it lightly, a quick pass with a little lubricant on your fingers works fine. With experience you learn as to whether or not you need to lubricate the hole inside the die, so you check that as well, adding lube if needed.
With the tapered end of the bullet pointed at the hole in the sizing die, you gently press the bullet into the die. Small pushes of steady pressure ensure that you don't get anything out of alignment, which will surely cause problems. When you are finished, you pull the die and the bullet apart, and clean off the bullet with a quick wipe with a soft rag to remove any excess lubricant or accumulated "stuff" from the swaging.
Sitting here thinking of that whole process, it does seem to remind me of something... hmmm... nope. Got nothing over here.
Here ya go, Bro ... memorize the following, and for best effect, remove your hat, genuflect, twist your countenance into serious sanctity, and bow your head in piety before quoting:
"The term "swage" ( a common term in the art of door hinges) means the offset of the axis of the knuckles of each hingeplate from the plane of the respective hinge plate that enables the two hinge plates to rotate to flush against one another.
Possibly the hinge is binding. When I install hinges, instead of a flat mortise I cut a beveled mortise to insure no binding. It's easier/faster to use a sharp chisel than a router. You might get by with cutting a slightly deeper mortise.
Because the hinge side doesn't have to have clearance for the swinging edge of the door to swish past. Hinge side gap results from not mortising the hinges deep enough (a bad idea, because those hinge edges are putting significant load on the mortise edges, you want ALL the hinge buried in wood).
If strike side gap is 1/4", I'd suggest removing the trim from the strike side, then fitting new wood wedges between the stud and the frame, shrinking the door opening. The trim goes back and covers up the wedges, and it's a tight door again.
The hinge side gap does not change with changes in the seasonal cycle. I'm not sure where you are and what the humidity and temperature swings are like, but you should adjust doors only when you know where in the yearly expansion cycle you are (assuming wood doors). If you adjust a door without taking into account where in the cycle it is, you are very likely going to be revisiting the problem later in the year when the door starts binding.
You need to insert some cardboard shims behind the jamb side hinge leaves. That will take care of the hinge side binding and shift the door in the opening so that the objectionable gap is less objectionable.
A strike side gap of 3/16" or less is acceptable and does not warrant extreme measures. There are other things in your house that probably require attention and deserve some of your time.
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