BEHR Paint And Primer In One. Most of you have seen the advert. So, is
it viable or just another marketing gimmick?
I hate painting and people like me are suckers for a pitch like this.
Would I be wasting my time with it or might there be something to it?
All opinions are welcome of course, but I'd really like to see some
comments from contractors who have actually tried it out.
Well... it depends. If you are painting fresh drywall it's probably OK to
sand and paint. If you are painting cabinets or trim not so much... you'd
generally want to sand, prime, sand, and then top coat things like cabinets
and trim to yield a smooth finish. Of course some may not care how smooth
the finish is and others would sand the drywall primer before top
coating... Thus the correct answer is, It Depends. ;~)
Main difference between a primer and a paint is the ration to pigment
versus binder. Primers will usually have a lot more binder in the ration
than the paint. This gives a good ability to stick to the surface. Paint
then can do what it is meant to do - color whatever.
For since the creation of the world His invisible attributes,
His eternal power and divine nature, have been clearly seen,
being understood through what has been made,
so that they are without excuse. For even though they knew God,
they did not honor Him as God, or give thanks; but they became
futile in their speculations, and their foolish heart was darkened.
- Romans 1:20-21 (NASB)
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Primer is used to prep the surface for paint. Priming/Prepping is more
than just a another layer of paint. It is meant to be sanded and worked
to a desired surface. Then you paint once you like the primer surface.
Primer and t all in only simply means the paint is likely to stick and
cover in one coat with out a separate layer. BUT if you are not happy
with the current surface do you want to use this premium stuff and then
sand it to smooth the surface and then reapply??
FWIW most premium quality paints do not need a primer for them to stick
to the wall and cover in one coat. I have had great luck with Sears
Best Easy Living interior wall paint, not cheap but on sale a bargain.
One coat is all I have needed to cover black marks on the wall.
Having said all of that.....
Most people hate to paint because they do not use top quality paints.
Painting really is not so bad when you use premium quality paints that
stick, flow, and cover in one coat.
I guess I get what I deserve then. I've always bought relatively cheap
paint. This appears to be another example of Festoolism ~ Pay more in
the beginning and wind up with a better completed job. Maybe if I
start looking for a paint company with green cans?
(Apologies for inserting the Festool blurb. We're all Festool agents
on commission. )
I have probably painted more houses than most here in this group,
somewhere between 25-30 interiors of complete houses..
Stuff I like to use,
With quality latex paints wall paints a decent brush and roller works well.
Trim is the kicker though.
I prefer to paint with alkid oil based paints for trim. A good and
decent sized brush, typically 4" wide. Small brushes simply don't hold
enough paint. Purdy and or Wooster make good brushes.
For large flat areas however the 1 "diameter foam brushes that are about
4~6" long work great with oil based paints, almost a sprayed look.
If painting trim with latex a pad brush works great on large flat areas.
Try not to "over work" enamel paints and don't scrape the excess paint
off of the brush when reloading, tap the brush against the inside side
of your paint container.
Basically you are leaving most of the paint in the can. If you simply
tap the wide side of the brush on the inside of the container only the
paint that the brush cannot naturally hold will slough off.
By tapping you will dip for more paint less often and the load on your
brush will go farther.
Leon is right. That is a rookie mistake. If you scrape the paint off
the brush, then you build up paint on the edge of your container
(NEVER paint from the can - pour you material into something else)
each time you do it. After a while you get two things; buildup, and
By dragging your brush over the edge (scraping, if you will) to remove
excess paint, you will start to pick up drying paint that is thicker
than the stuff in the container. The two different viscosities will
be more difficult to brush, but more importantly can foul the
consistency of your finish. Part of the paint has started to dry, and
part is fresh from the bottom of the can. Not good.
Worse, if you are painting long enough, you will start to pick up bits
and pieces of dried paint. Maybe no bigger than a grain of sand, but
you will certainly see it when your paint dries. When I paint, I pour
a couple of inches some in a container with a lid, and a gently slap
the brush on the side of the container. Not all the way up to the
well, but about halfway up the bristles, which is all I ever stick in
the paint anyway. I will gladly dip more often for a smoother finish.
Another benefit to "slapping" instead of scraping, is that you don't
cause the well of the brush to suck in paint. When it does, the brush
become much less flexible, and the buildup in the well prevents you
from having the proper flex and cutting straight lines.
When I am to be away for even 5 - 10 minutes, I always cover my
paint. The dollar store is dandy for 3 for a buck resealable
containers to toss at the end of the day. And if I am painting all
day, I usually have 2- 3 brushes with me, and will use one for an
hour, then wash it out and start with another brush, allowing the
first one to dry. Paint dries fast in these parts on a summer day,
even on the brush.
Thank you for a good painting lesson! Now that you've explained the
right way to do it, there's no one around qualified to help me! : )
Do you paint a pretty wide strip close to the carpet/baseboard? That
seems where I might have some trouble with the recommended strategy--too
much paint. I usually use(d) a 1.5" brush there (just "always have").
What is your preference?
The good brushes are much thicker than regular brushes, so I can get a
much straighter line with them. I don't think I've bought a -good- 4"
brush, though. We're talkin Festoolish money there.
My favorite is a Painter's Essentials 2-1/2" angled sash. It's a
cheaper brush, but it is built like a Purdy. Good quality nylon and
polyester bristles, thick, and with a nicely tapered, flagged end.
They mold to my hand like they're a part of it. But I can't find them
any more. Painter's Essentials BL-02014. I should have gone back to
the store the second I realized how good the brushes were. They cost
something like $2.50 each!
The greatest justice in life is that your
vision and looks tend to go simultaneously.
-- Kevin Bacon
Bill, for me personally I like a 2 1/2" angled sash brush. I like
a little stiffer, so Purdys aren't for me. I did like those Painter's
Choice that Larry J mentioned, but the last time I saw them in a store
(on closeout) was a while back, and I bought a couple.
My second choice is the "other" line of brushes they sell at Shwerwin
Williams. Don't remember the name, but they work well.
I am no sure I understand your question about baseboards, so I will
tell you how I do them, and you can go from there. On baseboards, I
paint the top edge with the wall color and a brush. I try to not go
more than about 1/4" on top of the trim. You can do this carefully
without leaning all the way over the trim to eyeball where your wall
is going. Just get enough to cover the joint of baseboard to
and you are done.
Then I come back and paint the baseboard. Think this through; you
have to lean all the way over and peer at the painted edge because
didn't care if you got a bit on the top of the trim. Now, you can
the top of the baseboard on your hands and knees, but not with your
pressed against the floor to try to cut the wall edge into the trim
Much easier. And not only are you in a more comfortable position to
paint, but you can also see much better as the top of the trim will
light from the top (as opposed to the side) on it to see your cut
while you work.
I do it the opposite way on vertical trims, or trims with complicated
patterns. I paint the door trims, bookcase trims, crown moldings
and anything else first, then cut the wall paint to it. The reason
is that you can cut a better line with your brush if you have more
support underneath it. You can control the flex of the brush better,
Which means better paint flow control. And if you are cutting
a molded piece such a crown that may have a small profile cut on the
edge, it only makes sense to paint the whole trim face first and not
spend all the time you need (and possibly an inferior job) to cut in
little ridges and small edges that you might slip the brush over quite
easily. It just takes too long to cut the trims to the wall, unless
is baseboard. But get your trims painted, and cutting the wall side
against the trim is a snap.
As far as cutting against the floor or carpet, I push down the carpet
with a 12" putty knife and cut to the knife. If it is wood, I put a
of tape at the shoe mold and paint to it. I never tear out or off
I am replacing it.
I just moved into a house just a few years ago. It has been almost 30
years since I painted and my painting knowledge is not far from where I
left it. After acquiring some experience helping dad, I "painted for
anyone" for 2 summers. I worked cheap and had plenty of work. I bought
my paint on sale at Sears for about $5.99/gal. I noticed that the price
of paint has gone up! :) I learned to use the 12" putty knife (&
rag!) approach for most of my "tough edges". Your post reveals
(obviously) the right way to look at things! TYVM!
If it is wood, I put a
On 3/15/2012 9:22 PM, email@example.com wrote:
i've found foster's coffee containers are really good. they're wide,
resealable, and have a formed in handle that's easy to hold for a long
time. also, when you're done, pour out the paint and let it dry in the
sun. you can just peel off the dried paint film after about a day and it
leaves no residue.
I use to use the Sears paints for all my painting needs. I liked the
results, too. But our local Sears closed its paint department. I
haven't been by, since last summer, to see if it has reopened the
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