band saw tuning frequency

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I have the grizzly 14" "Ultimate" bandsaw and I am working on my first cabriole legs. I was making shaped cuts out of 4" white oak and for some reason, the saw just will not seem to stay tuned. I can seemingly never get through a complete cut before the thing starts whining and next thing I know I need to readjust the guide bearings. Is this a technique problem? poor quality guides, not enough blade tension, or just to be expected?
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Band saw tuning frequency?
I tune mine to B#... :D!
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DS wrote:

You better C# or you'll Bb
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I agree - tuning to B# is really the same thing a tuning to C, and although a sharp band saw is a thing to be desired, band saws just simply are not C's. They're more generally O's.
--

-Mike-
snipped-for-privacy@alltel.net
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*G*
Leif
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The man asked a legitimate question. Help him out!
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Oops! DS made me do it! *G* Actually quite a number of issues can be involved, either singly or in combination. First this that comes to mind is are your cabriolet legs curves to small a radius for the 3/8's blade. I believe the minimum radius for your blade would be 1 inch? Also are your blade guides upper and lower firmly locked in place by your setscrews/bolts? What about the back guide? Is that set to the proper spacing? Tension according to blade mfgr's specs? I had a problem with my 14 inch BS until I switched out some pulleys and reset the motor for 240 operation. Many things to drive one mad! *G*
Leif
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He needs to talk to Kenneth.
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On Sun, 2 Dec 2007 14:33:16 -0800, "Leif Thorvaldson"

I don't think so. Isn't that Larry King, the King of Toots?
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4" of white oak is a lot of white oak to get through. Are you using a blade that's up to the task? It should *not* be expected that the band saw itself is not up to the task
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Power is not the problem. The blade is a 3/8, hook 3-4 tpi?? Seems appropriate for the task
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http://www.ts-aligner.com Home of the TS-Aligner
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If the guides are moving, they are crap and should be replaced with bolts that stay put.
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Have you locked the guide bearings in place? Is your blade sharp? Have you checked to see if your blade is at the proper tension? A quick tune up never hurts and often finds the problem.

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wrote:

Could be lots of things. A narrow blade (1/8") should help. You can round off the back part of the blade using a stone or file. This will help get into tighter curves. A complete tuneup does wonders for a bandsaw. Perhaps you may be cutting too fast--slowing down makes a big difference.
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There shouldn't be any tight curves on a cabriole leg, certainly none tight enough to need a 1/8" blade. 1/4" or 3/8" should do fine.
I think you may be on the money, though, when you look to cutting speed as a possible explanation.
--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)
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OK, I'm a "newbie" to my 14" Delta BS (had a SEARS 12" tilting table b4) and all this talk of "Tune Up" has me wondering exactly what is meant by it?
Are there a series of basic steps one follows ?
Are there specific parts to replace?
From the responses, it appears there may be levels of BS Tune Up
The switch to 240VAC sounds like a "special" on," for instance.
Is this something that would be listed in the Manual? mayb a "Trouble Shooting) table of Problems and Solutions?
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There are a series of steps that have to be done every time you change the blades. This is adjusting the bearings and guides, etc. The tracking sould be adjusted as well. I first get the tracking done, then adjust the guides to fit where the blades end up.
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wrote:

All of the above should be in your manual... on the Ridgid, it's under "setting up your saw..

mac
Please remove splinters before emailing
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I like the ceramic push bearings (they go behind the blade, instead of the sides). I had a metal bearing, but it kept getting dirt in them, and would stop spinning, and then would start wearing a groove in them.
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