Are all 13 amp TS's the same?

I'm borrowing a friend's Ryobi 3000 saw, rated at 13A. I was ripping some 8/4 oak tonight, and I had to go pretty slow to keep it from bogging down. Is this typical of any 13A TS? I'm shopping for a saw of my own, and I was considering the new Ridgid for it's price and features. But it has a 13A motor; the Jet Super Saw is rated at 14A.
Thanks,
Scott
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On 20 Jan 2004 20:31:54 -0800, snipped-for-privacy@att.net (Scott) wrote:

the ryobi has a universal motor. a 13amp induction motor will have considerably more power.     Bridger
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Normally the more amperage, the more power... Sorta..... More than anything a GOOD to premium quality blade will make more difference than adding more power. Secondly a properly tuned and aligned saw. "NEW ones normally need this adjustment also.

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"Scott" writes:

<snip>
So what else is new?
Ripping 8/4 white oak is a tough job.
Have upgraded my Delta contractor's saw with a good rip blade and a larger motor wired for 240 VAC for this task and it is still a slow cut job.
HTH
--
Lew

S/A: Challenge, The Bullet Proof Boat, (Under Construction in the Southland)
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What size motor did you put on it? I've thought about doing the same. However, the only time it slows down is when ripping 6/4 or thicker. Most of the time it handles 6/4 quite well. A proper rip blade makes a very dramatic improvement over a combination blade. The smooth cutting combo blades (WWII or Tenryu) require considerably more horse power to make the cut.

Southland)
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Ayup, 50 teeth need more power than 24.
Freud goes on when it's thick rip time.

considerably
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The difference between 13A and 14A is probably not significant. At the theoretical level, thats only a 7-1/2 per-cent difference. In rated _input_ power. A few points difference in the 'efficiency' of the motor will wipe out that difference. So will a difference in the sharpness of the blades. Or the quality of the bearings used. Or a slight difference in squareness/tuning. Etc., etc., ad nauseum.
I've got a Delta Contractor saw. The motor on it is rated 12.6A at 120V. Haven't had occasion to try thick oak, but it doesn't have any problem with 8/4 maple.
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Hi Scott,
The Ryobi motor is about as good as it gets for universal motors (most benchtop and many contractor saws). Induction motors will get you some more power, but (as Leon already noted) a good *ripping* blade will produce a more noticable improvement than anything.
I rip 4x stock on my Ryobi on occasion, and I've learned to switch out to an 18T ripping blade that is well sharpened before I start.
snipped-for-privacy@att.net (Scott) wrote in message

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snipped-for-privacy@sewanee.edu (Hylourgos) wrote in

You'll notice the difference even with a 3 hp Unisaw, if you don't change the blade, in ripping 8/4 oak. I've been leaving a 50T combo blade, full kerf, installed in the saw lately, because it cuts most of what I do so well. But Friday evening, I had a lot of rough oak lumber to mill, and I was in a hurry, and didn't change out the blade. So now I get to use the handplane to 'erase' some of the burn marks that the rip blade likely wouldn't have left.
I wasn't even trying to save time. I just didn't think as completely as I should have. The blade was in the rack, had I thought about it. And in fact, I didn't think about it, until reading Hylourgos' post.
Patriarch
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The SuperSaw has a 1 3/4 horse, TEFC, induction motor - so it delivers more "power" than the Ryobi. I like my SuperSaw, so I won't be unloading it, but -- in truth -- if I knew then what I knew now, I'd have spent my money differently.
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OK, 'ya gotta tell me what you know: I'm thinking of buying a SuperSaw!
Thanks,
Scott
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You would probably be better served with buying a Contractors saw rather than the new Hybrid style saws. Accessories are way easier to find and tend to be cheaper since you do not have to buy them from the manufacturer of your saw.
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more
money
Someone else put it well - it's a "System". You'll not find alot of aftermarket gear for it. Even Jet's own Tenoning Jig requires you to get (free? buy?) an adaptor plate since one miter slot is too far from the blade.
The offset fence rails annoyed me when I was making an aux router table. Fortunately, the drop from back to front is about 3/4" so an extra slice of MDF about nailed it.
The Infamous Timing Belt to raise/lower the blade seems like a design kludge to me. It wasn't any fun replacing it either after 10 months.
I've got the basic outfit - 30", no sliding table. My wings are flat, there's no run-out in, the miter slots are parallel. I had 115V in the garage, space was at a premium. I needed PDG dust collection, etc.
Am I still happy with it? Yeah. Is it still a better saw than I am wooddorker? You bet. Do I wish I had bought the DeWalt instead? Nope! Do I wish I had spent the same amount on a Delta Contractor w/ cast iron wings and a Bies/Unifence? Sometimes.
Will I be selling it? Not anytime soon. As I still believe "Tis' a Poor Carpenter that blames his tools." :)
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