Any good advice for wiring a router table?

I'm getting to the point where the router table I'm building can actually be used as a router table. I've got a Freud FT2000 to hang under it, so I'm not expecting to be able to run a shop vac on the same circuit at the same time, if you know what I mean.
I'm wondering if any of you can recommend a switch for this guy. I looked at the one at Busy Bee Tools but can't say I really like it. For $18 it seemed kind of cheap. And ugly. I want an emergency stop button, but I don't want to have to have the router plugged in to the front of it. That is, I just want the switch to show. I'll unplug the router from inside the cabinet. It's got to be able to handle the 15Amps the router will draw (is it 18A on startup?).
I hope I'm making sense enough. Or maybe I'm going about this the wrong way. Can you give me the benefit of your experience, and maybe point me to a reasonable product I can get without too much trouble in Canada? Thanks.
- Owen -
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I'm not sure about reasonability and Canada but I've just posted a picture on abpw of my An Ultimate Router Table with it's $17(ish) (US) An Ultimate Router Table Switch.
It came from the ConGlomCo that now owns JetPowermaticWiltonMattel.
UA100
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If you're talking about magnetic switches by any chance, my experience up here is that they cost an arm and a leg. I remember when I was looking for one for my Rockwell/Beaver contractor's saw that I'd upgraded with some Excalibur saw guides and fence. Cheapest price I could find (some 15 years ago) were running in the $200 range. Of course, that was then and electronics are quite a bit cheaper now.
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You can try the router table switch from Rockler (watch for wrap): http://www.rockler.com/ecom7/product_details.cfm?&offerings_id 402&objectgroup_id#7&catid=7&filter=router%20table%20switch
I use it with my 3-1/4 HP router with no problem. There are two cords attached to the switch, one with a female plug on about a 12" cord and the other with a male plug on about a 6' cord. Plug the router into the female plug and the male plug goes into the wall. The 12" of cord on the female plug allows you to 'hide' the connection. The only thing the is really visible on the table would be the start and stop buttons on the switch. The is the same switch Norm uses on his Deluxe Router Station. Price is about $22.
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Ok, one thing I like about Grizzly tools is that the stop button sticks out (like that switch) but the start button is RECESSED, not just surrounded by a guard like Rockler's. You can blindly slap the switch with whatever body part is available, and you WILL shut the tool off.
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wrote:

Blindly slap, where no man has slapped before. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ...no idea where that thought came from..maybe something in my tea..
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Support free trade...Smuggle!
--

Roger Shoaf

About the time I had mastered getting the toothpaste back in the tube, then
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wrote:

I just looked at the link and it is listed at $15 "special". FYI. -- Igor
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Must've just gone on sale. I wonder how long it'll stay there. Thanks for the tip.
- Owen -
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F*kkin'-A!
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I bought an industrial wall switch (at Home Depot) for my router table for less than $5. It controls a 3.25HP router. No problems.
On Sun, 16 Jan 2005 23:48:48 -0500, "Owen Lawrence"

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before changing bits; which I suppose you could still do inside, but probably wouldn't.
I have never measured my router, but typically motors draw three times their normal current on startup. (My refrigerator draws 8X)
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