Amount of lighting

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Bill wrote:

Those would work but I was thinking of the ones that are a shallow metal box holding two (or one) tube, ballast is inside the box. They just screw to the ceiling. Like these... http://www.homedepot.com/Lighting-Fans-Indoor-Lighting-Industrial-Shop-Lighting-Strip-Fluorescents/h_d1/N-5yc1vZ1xg4Zbvm3/R-100148706/h_d2/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId051&catalogId053
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dadiOH
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wrote:

With or without, it makes little difference. White paint ceilings and walls will act as reflectors.
-- Happiness is not a station you arrive at, but a manner of traveling. -- Margaret Lee Runbeck
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Ah yes, that problem!
We are the second occupiers of our house and originally the builders installed an "up and over" wooden garage door.
When I finally grew tired of trying to repair it, in fact it reached a point when I think it was beyond repair, I made myself a pair of "conventional" side opening doors and gained myself a lot of extra space.
The original door was secured by a bolt and padlock down at the bottom right and the handle was at ground level too. I now have a nice handle, catch and mortice lock at elbow level - no more bending down to open the door.
The new doors keep out the weather and draughts better too.
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Stuart Winsor

Midland RISC OS show - Sat July 9th 2011
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*snip*
What you need is a new garage door with windows in it. Put your lights above the windows and they'll shine through! :-)
You can also cover the windows with blinds hinged at the top. When the door opens, the blinds will uncover the windows and the light still can shine through. :-)
Puckdropper
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Never teach your apprentice everything you know.

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wrote:

Nine dual 4 foot 40 watt fluorescent fixtures is pretty good. It will seem pretty bright, but could be better. I would put 12 or 15 fixtures in for overall lighting. The 9 fixtures will not be enough to really light up the room. You will be able to see everything, but it won't shine. You would still need task lighting to see. With 12 or better, 15, fixtures, you could eliminate the inconvenience of turning on and off task lighting every time you move around the work area. What an inconvenience.
My basement is split into two rooms. One about 19x29 and the other 25x32. About 550 and 800 square feet. The 550 side has 19 two bulb 4 foot 40 watt fluorescent fixtures. About 2.7 watts per square foot. The 800 side has 18 two bulb 4 foot 40 watt fluorescent fixtures. About 1.8 watts per square foot. Both rooms are bright. All walls and floor are painted white. Until now I never realized one side was so under lit compared to the other side. The way the room is setup with the furnace and ductwork and supporting beam, I'm not sure I could have squeezed in another row of lights. So it will have to do.
The question asker has 500 square feet lit by 9 lights so about 1.44 watts per square foot. Good but could easily be better. Your room is 480 square feet lit by 5 fixtures. Only 0.83 watts per square foot. Not enough.
If the original question asker is putting in lights, I don't understand why he would not put in plenty of lights. It takes minimal extra work to install a few more. And if having light bothers you, its easy to just remove the bulb. Less light, less electricity used, and you still have the option of putting the bulb back in and getting adequate light.

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snipped-for-privacy@yahoo.com wrote:

Thanks for sharing your thoughts and your calculations.
Bill
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On Tue, 30 Nov 2010 13:22:51 -0800 (PST), " snipped-for-privacy@yahoo.com"

or every second light, on one switch, the other half on another switch so you can have enough light to move around and do non-vision-critical stuff with reduced lighting cost, and full bright light when you need it. With dual ballast 4 lampers put the inners on one ballast (and switch) and the outers on the second. Primary lighting would use the outer tubes, full lighting all 4.
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snipped-for-privacy@snyder.on.ca wrote in

My garshop has sets of lights on separate switches. Sometimes I'll be working somewhere else and leave a light on so I can see to get tools without having to walk all the way around to the front door and turn the lights on.
It's really nice when the weather is poor. I can cut through the garage rather than go around it.
Puckdropper
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On Tue, 30 Nov 2010 20:19:28 -0500, snipped-for-privacy@snyder.on.ca wrote:

Yabbut, Bill doesn't want to tear up any fresh drywall and had only planned on wiring half his shop ceiling to begin with! I'm hoping he reconsiders both options as absolutely necessary to his eventual happiness.

I'm not a fan of 4-lampers. Too much light in one area, more expensive to run.
-- Happiness is not a station you arrive at, but a manner of traveling. -- Margaret Lee Runbeck
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Larry Jaques wrote:

Yeah, the lights you suggested today--above the garage door, will require a separate switch, as well as half of the others new ones (the way I see it). I'm not afraid of cutting drywall. I'm just not going to cut it in haste. The more I think about it, the more I think a little cleverness in using my 1 new lighting cable that I have could go a long way on this... Maybe the switch that it's on will become a "master" switch. Unfortunately, my new insulation in the walls makes adding new wall switches a "pain".
This just reinforces the notion that learning processes like this are circular in nature.
I just happen to have 3 fluorescent fixtures on short chains (4100K bulbs, I believe). One of them is portable. In the meantime I may experiment with different bulbs and see what I can learn about light density.
Bill
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Not with a shiny new fishing kit, it doesn't.

When in trouble or in doubt, run in circles scream and shout?

Yeah, most are.

Zipcord and male connectors will make the others that way in a jiffy.

Goodonya, mate.
-- Happiness is not a station you arrive at, but a manner of traveling. -- Margaret Lee Runbeck
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As long as there are no "firestops" or crossbraces the insulation is only a minor inconvenience. I pull comm cable into insulated steel studded walls quite often. A lighted fish-tape makes it a lot easier, I'll have to admit. (red LED on the end so you can see which side of the hole it goes past when you shove it down the wall, )

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snipped-for-privacy@snyder.on.ca wrote: I pull comm cable into insulated steel

That's a nice tip! Pardon the pun. Thank you.
Bill
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On Tue, 30 Nov 2010 20:40:02 -0800, Larry Jaques

That's why I pointed him towards Wiremold.

Split ballast 2 lampers are also available.
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