Amazing kickback!

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Forget the 1/4" dowel, try it with a 1/8" dowel. Toller didn't say how long the piece was, but try it with a 3' long piece. Then tells us what happened.
Matthew Eash wrote:

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Toller wrote:

How does a piece of wood that tiny hit a wall and not break all to pieces instead of bouncing? Must be damned tough wood?
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An 11" long piece of walnut. Only one of the six bounced more than a few feet, but none were the least bit damaged.
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There's no reason for a piece that short to have ever been introduced to the back/top teeth of the blade. Raise the blade all the way, cut in half way, back out, cut from the other end. If you don't pass the back teeth I believe backing out is safe. Safer than intentionally allowing a kickback anyway. Keep a push stick pushing down close to the front of the blade to keep the stock from chattering, both as you make the cut and as you back out. I cut small stuff like that all the time this way, but I have learned to never let anything that small near the back of the blade, unless you enjoy having little splinters come flying towards your face at high speed.
-Leuf
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Easier yet. Cut as usual and use a push BLOCK, not stick.
wrote:

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You will never see me using an 1/8" wide push block. 1/4" ok. Narrower than that for repeated cuts jig it so the 1/8" is cut off opposite the fence side, and for a one of I do it as I described.
-Leuf
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Think Sacrificial push block.
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Yes. Predecessor to the Grripper.
wrote:

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I wouldn't either. For this, about 2.5" would be about right.

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wrote:

Do not raise blade all the way up (3 inches), you will surley be asking for trouble there.
I think everyone is over reacting to this, think about it the blade is only 1/4" out of the table and only 1/8" above material. Assuming the gap between the blade and insert is 1/16" or less a push stick is very acceptable for this cut. Although saftey glasses are a must reguardless what you are cutting.
Just my .02
Kevin
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<snip bad idea>

I suggest you rethink the level of safety in which you feel comfortable working. Why would you not take 60 seconds to build a thin strip cutting jig? They are safe, simple and when the saw is set, you don't have to move the fence for each cut.
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I just had an "almost" this weekend. Was ripping some purpleheart on my ancient saw and it started warping shut behind the blade. Got it a ways back behind the blade and carefully wedged it open, then finished the cut.
I need to either figure out how to put a splitter on that saw (didn't come with one, no room on the insert behind the blade) or else get a new saw.
Chris
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