alllllllright, wait a dang sec. Using oil with a hacksaw?

[phorbin]

I've had them 'blue' and be hot enough to burn wood when I set them down.

[Thomas G. Marshall]

Same answer. The thermal tolerance of wood is in no way related to the that of steel.

[Larry Jaques]

On Mon, 21 Dec 2009 07:53:47 -0500, the infamous phorbin scrawled the following:

If you can blue a manual hacksaw by hand, you're our hero. More often, good blades have enough set to keep from binding in the cut and cool considerably during the stroke and the backstroke. Since I started using Starrett blades (the only Starrett thangs I can afford) I haven't noticed a blade hot enough to burn me after cutting angle iron. The stock itself is a heatsink, ferchrissake.

So, I still say "Put a new, sharp blade on that damned thing, phorbin."

-------------------------------------------- -- I'm in touch with my Inner Curmudgeon. -- ============================================

[Swingman]

Come now, C-less ... that's not the point!

A 'caviler in the usenet wild' MUST take exception to ANY minute detail not specifically in lock step with a Google/Wikipedia source so that you can be publicly corrected whilst showcasing said caviler's 'superior than thou', hard won, Google expertise/knowledge.

You may also want to make a note of that other noted 'caviler in the wild' characteristic: never showing photographic evidence of anything personally accomplished.

[Father Haskell]

Waxing the blade works, too. Doesn't make as much mess. Candles or sticks of canning wax won't leak all over your toolbox.

[Thomas G. Marshall]

....................................yeah! What he said.

[clare]

But "blue" is temper colopur. If you get steel hot enough to "blue" you have affected hardness/temper and damaged the blade. Absolutely NOTHING wrong with using coolant/lubricant on a hack-saw - and if you are attempting to cut aluminum it is a EXCELLENT idea as it keeps the teeth from "loading up"

[Larry Jaques]

On Mon, 21 Dec 2009 10:20:27 -0600, the infamous Swingman scrawled the following:

Erm, OK.

Ah, got it. Oh, all this revelling (or is it reviling?) with those pesky cavilers has me tired. G'night, Chet.

-- REMEMBER: The sooner you fall behind, the more time you'll have to catch up!

[phorbin]

I can't count the number of times I've not had a camera around to prove that I've done something a bit unusual or stupid.

I'm sure the same applies to just about everyone.

Shrug...

You either believe me or you don't.

[mac davis]

My guess is that as in a power hacksaw, the oil would help carry chips/shavings away from the blade and make a smoother cut with less chance of jamming?

mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

[Robatoy]

MAC!!!!! Happy New Year!

[mac davis]

Thank you, sir... back at ya...

mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

[Larry Jaques]

On Tue, 29 Dec 2009 19:12:25 -0800, the infamous mac davis scrawled the following:

In power hacksaws, speed is an issue and oil becomes a coolant as well.

-- It's a shallow life that doesn't give a person a few scars. -- Garrison Keillor

[Maxwell Lol]

I have a lubricant used for bandsaws. I got it from a woodworking supply, but it's made for metal-cutting bandsaws.

[jackyjean65]

They make POWER hacksaws?!?

[Ed Pawlowski]

You want electric of pneumatic?

The one we have at work has a 14" blade. I've seen much larger though.

[Martin Eastburn]

I have a 'blue max' - maybe different in spelling - hacksaw that is a 4" 'tall and about 24" long. Thick. I was in the process of making a wood saw - like a bow saw - from it - for really nasty wood.

I just got out my 1 man buck saw that cuts down a tree and used it. It has a standard looking hand saw and a post for the far end if needed.

Mart> >> They make POWER hacksaws?!?