Window frame filler

On the Sarah Beany TV show, she showed a sash window being filled with filler rather than replace the window. It was a lot cheaper, and the before and after was good. Anyone know what conmpanies do this and what filler they use.?

Reply to
timegoesby
Loading thread data ...

Do you mean a partially rotted window?

If so, use 'rotten wood hardener' followed by wood filler. I've just done this (well, SWMBO has) on a conservatory frame that has to last a couple more years before the whole thing comes down.

Couldn't find it in B&Q but did in Homebase (yuk again).

Reply to
Bob Eager

I tried it on a rotten sill and quite honestly it was a waste of time. Just as easy to cut out and replace the rotten wood and cheaper too. Basically, it fell out within a year.

Reply to
Dave Plowman (News)

Basically you strip out all the soft rotten wood (which is scary as it makes the damage look ten times worse than it was!) then treat the remaining surface with a hardening solution:

You can then fill in the crater using a catalytic filler such as: - although I usually use car body filler which is a bit cheaper. If the hole is very big, it's a good idea to put some screws into the damaged area, with the heads below the final surface level, to act as a 'scaffold' to reinforce the repair. The filler sets like stone, and provided you've got rid of all the old rotten wood, treated it properly and made sure the original reason for the rot has been cured, it makes a good long-lasting repair. Don't overfill, because it's hard graft sanding it down.

David

Reply to
Lobster

Getting rid of all the rotten wood is the problem - as the hardener doesn't soak in very far. So any left behind where it does soak to simply continues the rotting process. Like all these repairs you really need to get back to sound timber and then some. So for anything other than a small amount of rot it's just as easy (and cheaper) to let in new wood.

Reply to
Dave Plowman (News)

Except the new wood shrinks away from the old. Car body filler is the way to go IMO. Very cheap from trade suppliers so you can afford to cut out all the rotten wood. A bit of sculpture when it's half cured saves a lot of sanding and, in the case of sills etc, a former (greased) to get a good edge

Reply to
Stuart Noble

Then use better wood. I'm assuming the repair you're doing is outside so the water content of that timber is likely higher than than 'normal' Probably far more so if it's rotten.

Still far more expensive than replacement wood though. And if you think replacement wood won't work because of movement due to water content, this far more applies to car body filler - it won't move in the same way as wood so *will* fall out, eventually - the same as any filler. Of course as a quick bodge it will be better than others, but it's a short term expensive 'fix'.

It's easy material to work with I'd agree.

Reply to
Dave Plowman (News)

If

Did some heavy duty repairs with it on my sliding sashes and sills 15+ years ago. Joints had gone on lower sashes and the wooden sills were shot to pieces. Some need a lick of paint now, but that's all. I can only say it has worked for me and stood the test of time.

Reply to
Stuart Noble

HomeOwnersHub website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.