Which Garage Door Lubricant?

Which is the best stuff to use to lubricate an up-and-over garage door? I have steel runners up each side, nylon (?) wheels and a bloody great spring across the top. The door opens very unevenly and there seems to be a lot of black streaky stuff on the runners. Can I just use the normal 3in1, WD40 etc, or is there something better?
Thanx.
Andy.
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On 14 Jul 2003 12:14:20 -0700, snipped-for-privacy@talk21.com (Andy) wrote:

I don't know the answer to this question, but I think it's worth noting that you shouldn't mess with those large springs. At least that's my impression from what I've read elsewhere.
Reason being that there is a lot of stored energy in those springs which you don't want to release - it could potentially be harmful to you. As far as I am aware (and I accept I'm going way off topic here, sorry!) before releasing those springs from the doorframe you have to lock them with some sort of pin, so that they retain their stored energy and can't unwind.
Andrew
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On 15 Jul 2003 08:34:35 GMT, snipped-for-privacy@ukmisc.org.uk (Huge) wrote:

Sounds like a job for the wife then. :)
Andrew
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Andrew McKay wrote:

Hah. The will give you a nasty nip. But I have 'repaired' two of em by strecthing them a bit more and making new ends for em.
Not to be tackled without thought, but not THAT dangerous.

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A colleague of mine has now lost the sight of his eye after trying to retention a King door,these have a plastic collar for the resentioning pins to fit in and often they have been damaged or worn.
Alex
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Grease is not a good lubricant for garage doors,it tends to collect dirt quickly and causes accelerated wear to nylon runners which in turn affects the operation of the door,causing cables to snap prematurely .A recommended lubricant by most Manufactures is Duck oil,applied on a regular basis it will keep moisture at bay and keep the door in top condition.Pour into a spray bottle and keep by the door apply every three months inland more often by the sea.It will penetrate the torsion spring and keep it in good condition,that's the one across the top.(these cost around 140.00 to replace) so the correct lubricant is important.
Alex
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snipped-for-privacy@talk21.com (Andy) wrote in

Pretty well, I use motorcycle chain lube. If you know a greaser borrow a squirt But be aware the sring twists, so each coil needs lubricating against the one next to it. If the wheels are in good nick - no flats - then you shouldn't need to lubricate except just at the bearings.
I don't think WD40 is persistent enough
Mike R
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Andy wrote:

A loded grease - lithium? is what that gunk is.
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On 14 Jul 2003 12:14:20 -0700, snipped-for-privacy@talk21.com (Andy) wrote:

One of the best things to use is near-perfect, but hard to buy except in huge quantities. It's the old-style motorbike chain grease in the big flat tin, where you applied it by soaking the chain in the tin, whilst heating it to melt the grease. See if you can scrounge someone from someone with an old Brit.
Another good grease is proper elevator / lift cable / chain grease. Extremely sticky. You can find it in the better sorts of engineering supplier.
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snipped-for-privacy@talk21.com (Andy) wrote:
Hello Andy

Neither of those will work for more than 10 seconds, if that.
You want a heavy grease, lithium based lasts well. Buy a pot, or a grease gun cartridge (even without the gun), it's useful stuff to have around.
And don't be tempted to undo any of the bolts holding the springs on...
--
Simon Avery, Dartmoor, UK
uk.d-i-y FAQ: http://www.diyfaq.org.uk /
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