I don't think it matters really, it's probably easier to mount the
metal one properly as the dry lining ones are designed to clip into
plasterboard and I don't quite see how you'd fix one into a lath and
plaster wall. So, on reflection, I think you ought to use a metal
I concur. The lath and plaster has always been too thick and variable to
take a dry lining box when I've tried. You need to install a batten behind
to fix a metal unit to, or channel out a stud to the depth of the box. For
light switches, in the past I've managed to install a small wooden plate
attached to one stud only to avoid having to make a large hole. I'm not sure
if this would be suitable for sockets, though, where you have to apply much
pressure against the accessory to insert the plug and you don't have much
depth to get a strong connection between plate and stud.
I doubt you'll get a fixing with a dry lining box in a lath and plaster
My way would be to cut out the hole in the wall, then fix a couple of
vertical battens slightly longer than the hole from say 1 x 1/2" on the
back of the laths securing with brass screws (steel ones will rust and pop
the plaster) through from the outside. Then drill suitable holes in the
backing boxes and fix to these battens. After making good with a one coat
plaster you'll have a fixing that's as strong as the wall.
Or if you're lucky and the box position falls between two complete laths,
you can sometimes 'tosh' thing screws into those laths through holes
you've drilled in the boxes.
However, the first method is guaranteed to give a solid fixing.
*INDECISION is the key to FLEXIBILITY *
Dave Plowman firstname.lastname@example.org London SW 12
Cheers everyone for your advice,
I'm in the middle of renovating our bathroom, this involves a new bathroom
suite and redocorating the whole thing. This meant taking all the tiles off
(the whole bathroom is tiled floor to ceiling) whilst doing this most of the
plaster came down as well.
So whilst speaking to my plasterer I hit upon the idea of taking the laths
down on the inside of the bathroom and he'd put up plasterboard a) it'll be
quicker for him (cheaper for me!) b) I can fix all the pipe work for the
shower and electrics and re-route the light switch to outside the bathroom,
far more easily than channelling into the walls.
So I should be able to fix a couple of battens from the inside of the
bathroom and then sink the box from the outside.
BTW good point about the brass screws, could you use galvanised screws
London SW 12
If you cut just the plaster with a sharp (Stanley) knife to the size of box
you're going to use (use the box as a template), then you'll be able to see
where the laths are. Take a sharp knife or small pad saw (hacksaw blade
without handle) and cut out the laths to the same size. Try to stop the
laths separating from the surrounding plaster. Slip a piece of inch by
inch, or inch by inch 'a' half, into the hole that you can turn upright
(vertically) like a stud, and fix it in the middle of the hole with long
screws right through the plaster and remaining laths, above and below the
hole. Bury the heads of the fixing screws just below the surface of the
plaster so that when the holes are filled they disappear. You should then
have a solid enough timber to fix a box to.
One tip is to screw a nail into the middle of the wooden strap you're using
and tie a piece of string to it. This helps to stop you losing it down
inside the wall and gives you something to pull against when you're putting
the fixing screws in.
On Fri, 22 Aug 2003 10:47:53 GMT, BigWallop wrote:
Be *very**very* careful. I still haven't got proper feeling back in
the top 1/2" of my 2nd finger left hand and a "funny" patch on the
3rd, after attempting to amuptate them whilst cutting a hole in
plasterboard with a "sharp (Stanley) knife". This was about 3 1/2
Best approach is to drill a hole and use a pad saw of some description
to cut and enlarged the hole as required. It is easyier and safer.
It was trying to stop the plasterboard wagging about with lefthand
that got it the wrong side of the "sharp (Stanley) knife"...
It might need a notch to take the box, depending in the thickness of
the lath/plaster and the depth of the box. I should think trying to
squeeze the cables for a fan in a 15mm box a bit tight. But a good
Dave. pam is missing e-mail
Amazing, I was doing this very job this afternoon. I was surprised just
how well a knife goes through this lime plaster. For sawing the laths
use a fine-toothed blade the wrong way round, so that it cuts on the
pull stroke, Japanese style.
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