Underfloor insulation and heating

[Chris S]

Hello,

I am contemplating taking up my old quarry tiled and un-insulated kitchen floor (~16 sq.m.)and installing insulation and wet underfloor heating, with new tiles on top.

I have read some earlier discussions on this and am considering the (swedish) kit, marketed by Floorheater in the UK on the grounds that it looks simple to install and if it works (i.e. is cost-effective) in Sweden it should work in the UK.

Has anyone had experience of this system in recent times?

I don't know exactly how much depth I'll have to play with but am assuming that the thicker the insulation (e.g. Celotex) installable the better. I'm also assuming, since this is an old house, that I'll have to establish a new concrete base.

Given the the Floorheater panels can be tiled directly onto. Could these panels, which I think are 25mm thick, bond directly onto Celotex, or would I need a screed on the Celotex?

Many thanks.

[ARWadsworth]

The OP did say he wanted to install wet UFH.

[The Natural Philosopher]

Harry doesn't do basic 'reading and comprehension'.

[Ben Blaukopf]

floor (~16 sq.m.)and installing insulation and wet underfloor heating, wit= h new tiles on top.

ish) kit, marketed by Floorheater in the UK on the grounds that it looks si= mple to install and if it works (i.e. is cost-effective) in Sweden it shoul= d work in the UK.

g that the thicker the insulation (e.g. Celotex) installable the better. I'= m also assuming, since this is an old house, that I'll have to establish a = new concrete base.

panels, which I think are 25mm thick, bond directly onto Celotex, or would = I need a screed on the Celotex?

Thinking about something similar myself....

The Floorheater website seems to be lacking a data sheet, but the brochure says that it comes in 12.5mm and 25mm versions. The 25mm one includes insulation - you might as well go for the 12.5 and manage insulation yourself.

Thermoboard and Nu-Heat LoPro10 are both 15mm thick, and do pretty much the same thing.

I would have thought that if Celotex couldn't be used, then Marmox (or Therma-mat, or similar) should be fine.

[Tim Lamb]

In message , Chris S writes

Umm... I think you need to find someone who has such a system installed.

The slotted board has the draw back that you can't use the *snail* spiral recommended by Polypipe. This may not be much of an issue if you have lots of short pipe runs connecting back to the manifold but you then return fairly hot water which may not get the best out of your boiler.

In a *worst case* example; where your heating pipe starts at one side of the room and zig zags across to the other before returning to the manifold, the floor will have a temperature gradient.

On the you can *tile directly claim* I suppose it depends how compressible the polystyrene is. My sister has a chipboard floor laid directly over conventional floor insulation and that definitely springs as you move about.

regards