TRVs

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I think I got them for around 9 when buying them together with the radiators. This was from a small independant (AFAIK) plumbers merchant in the high street (who for reasons I don't understand, often puts the bits into a plumbcenter bag).
That reminds me -- I keep meaning to find a supplier for the adjusting tool which allows you to use them for flow balancing adjustment too.
Has anyone done this? The instructions say you can only turn the adjustment one way, but I presume if you go too far, there's some way back, like turning it all the way round again or something? Instructions don't say.
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Andrew Gabriel

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wrote:

What make did you buy?
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problems with any of them yet.

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Chris French, Leeds

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B and Q - 5 odd - noisy from start leaking after 6 months - changing to Drayton
Nick
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Wickes - same price - no problems after 2 years. Dunno who make the wickes ones.
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Pegler Terrier II (from Screwfix). 8.99 each (or 7.99 for 10 or more). No problems after 12 hours. ;)
D
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On Mon, 8 Dec 2003 10:16:37 +0000 (UTC), Danny Monaghan

Westherm, I think. I have a mix of them and some cheapies from B&Q, all were about 6. After 6-7 years, none have leaked and the one or two that seem to be inaccurate have been like that for some time.
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"Dave Plowman" wrote in message

Danfoss, IMHO.

Have never known them leak. Have known them stick shut, over summer in a badly sludged system, but they are easily unstuck without the need to drain down and with no more than a few cc of water spilt.
That will be 2d please.
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I have those. Must be 15-20 years old.

One or two of mine sometimes stick over the summer, but energetically working them open and closed a few times seems to cure it.

Any chance of more info?
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"Mike Tomlinson" wrote in message
[Danfoss TRVs]

1. Ensure that the system pump is not running.
2. Remove the TRV sensor head.
3. Unscrew & remove the 'gland seal' - this is the central hex headed brass assembly which holds the actuator pin. The innards of the valve are now exposed and a slight seepage of water is usual at this point.
4. Using something small and round, such as a small electrical screwdriver, feel inside for the recess that the actuator pin engages with; this is one end of a rod with the valve cone on its other end. _Gently_ attempt to push this rod from side to side with a circular or waggling motion, increasing the force applied until you start to feel the valve un-stick. The internal spring does the rest and the rod will pop outwards by a few mm, accompanied by a little gush of water (have old towels ready).
5. Quickly replace the gland seal and tighten.
6. Press on the actuator pin and ensure that it returns under spring pressure - you can easily distinguish between stuck and unstuck valves by the feel of their pins.
7. Replace the head.
HTH
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Andy




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[snip instructions]
Very useful, thank you. Printed and filed for reference :)
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"Andy Wade" wrote

I was sold one of these by PTS. Fearsomely expensive, but seem to be good quality compared to the shed cheapies.
I only needed one anyway !
Cheers,
Paul.
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from Screwfix to see how they go. It is supposed to be a decent brand so we shall see.
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