TRVs

What's the best make? And possibly one that can be repaired when it starts leaking?

Reply to
Dave Plowman
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I've got Invensys ones (Drayton), which I've had for 18 years

Approx 3 of them have had new heads about 5 years ago, the rest are fine Ultimately all TRV heads fail and generally it's that they become insensitive to temperature change and as you turn the control the valve clunks on and off. Most manufacturers suggest about a 7 year life, so I am pretty happy.

None of the valve bases have failed at all, and I don't know of anyone who has had one fail. The neoprene gaskets are available for Drayton AFAIK.

The heads can be bought separately but are not repairable AFAICS.

.andy

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Reply to
Andy Hall

Crikey. Mine seem to average about 5. I've had several different makes, but just the sheds own brands.

Mine all start leaking. Can't say I've ever actually tried to repair them, since draining down the system is the real pain rather than changing the valve. One has just gone in a big way in the kitchen, so that's tomorrow taken care of. But I'm considering changing the whole lot as it's a while since the last one failed, and they're not all the same age.

Not really a problem since they're so easy to change.

Reply to
Dave Plowman

Looking on the Plumbcenter site, Drayton, Myson, Pegler etc. are all at around £15 list. Last time I bought a couple, I managed to get them down to £12 without too much problem.

Probably if you bought ten or so, you could do better than that.....

If they're all of the same type, then there's a fairly good chance that others will fail. As you say, draining down and replacing inhibitor unless you keep the water, becomes a pain.

Given the situation, I think I'd bite the bullet and swap the lot in one go. Once you get organised, it goes pretty quickly.

.andy

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Reply to
Andy Hall

In message , Dave Plowman writes

I fitted Drayton TR4's almost 7 years ago when I did our CH, not had any problems with any of them yet.

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Reply to
chris French

B and Q - £5 odd - noisy from start leaking after 6 months - changing to Drayton

Nick

Reply to
Nick Smith

I've had a look at the Drayton ones and there's a major snag. They have what I'd describe as conventional compression fittings to the incoming pipe.

Mine have a male 'nut' which fits into the female housing, rather than the more usual compression fitting type female cap and male body. To change to the Drayton ones would mean removing the olives so I could change the entire thing rather than re-using the nut part and existing olive as I've done before.

So any alternative make that is a direct replacement or should I just go for replacement Homebase ones - assuming they haven't changed the design...

The thought of trying to remove that number of olives doesn't appeal - I'd rather just pay up and leave the problem for another 5 years...

Reply to
Dave Plowman

"Nick Smith" wrote in news:5wWAb.23$ snipped-for-privacy@newsfep1-win.server.ntli.net:

Wickes - same price - no problems after 2 years. Dunno who make the wickes ones.

Reply to
Danny Monaghan

Danfoss, IMHO.

Have never known them leak. Have known them stick shut, over summer in a badly sludged system, but they are easily unstuck without the need to drain down and with no more than a few cc of water spilt.

That will be 2d please.

Reply to
Andy Wade

Pegler Terrier II (from Screwfix). £8.99 each (or £7.99 for 10 or more). No problems after 12 hours. ;)

D
Reply to
David Hearn

I have always used Danfoss Randall, but I've just ordered some Pegler ones from Screwfix to see how they go. It is supposed to be a decent brand so we shall see.

Reply to
Kalico

To follow up, I had a trawl of all the DIY palces and PMs, and of course non do a direct replacment for the type I have which I think came from Homebase - which has changed hands in the interim.

So taking Andy Hall's advice I bought Drayton from my local Plumbase.

15.67 squids each after discount, so about twice the price of shed ones.

Looks like I'll have to change the stub pipes into the rads as well - I hope the PTFE tape has prevented corrosion since they're about 25 years old...

So 10 olives and stubs to remove without damage. Think I'll leave it till tomorrow to get a full day at it.

Reply to
Dave Plowman

Westherm, I think. I have a mix of them and some cheapies from B&Q, all were about £6. After 6-7 years, none have leaked and the one or two that seem to be inaccurate have been like that for some time.

Reply to
John Laird

I think I got them for around £9 when buying them together with the radiators. This was from a small independant (AFAIK) plumbers merchant in the high street (who for reasons I don't understand, often puts the bits into a plumbcenter bag).

That reminds me -- I keep meaning to find a supplier for the adjusting tool which allows you to use them for flow balancing adjustment too.

Has anyone done this? The instructions say you can only turn the adjustment one way, but I presume if you go too far, there's some way back, like turning it all the way round again or something? Instructions don't say.

Reply to
Andrew Gabriel

I'm not sure I would assume any compatibility across makes if you wish to retain the existing threaded fitting. I think I have some of these - is the olive a strange tapered thing that closes over slightly at the top and actually sits on the end of the pipe rather than sliding up and down it ?

Reply to
John Laird

In article , Andy Wade writes

I have those. Must be 15-20 years old.

One or two of mine sometimes stick over the summer, but energetically working them open and closed a few times seems to cure it.

Any chance of more info?

Reply to
Mike Tomlinson

What make did you buy?

Reply to
IMM

"Andy Wade" wrote

I was sold one of these by PTS. Fearsomely expensive, but seem to be good quality compared to the shed cheapies.

I only needed one anyway !

Cheers,

Paul.

Reply to
Zymurgy

See other recent thread about olive removal. Four major approaches:

1) Don't bother, use more gunk/PTFE and hope. But that doesn't apply to your case. 2) Slide hammer improvised from an adjustable spanner. Only works if they are very loose. 3) Careful use of junior hacksaw and big screwdriver. My prefered method. 4) Nifty olive removal tool available for about =A330 all in. URL in the= other thread, ah I book marked it:

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Reply to
Dave Liquorice

Yup.

I'm hoping...

It's the one I use, but supporting a pipe sticking up out of the floor ain't easy. And some of them aren't that accessible. And I'm getting too old for bending down all day.

Reply to
Dave Plowman

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