testing fluorescent tube starter

[fred]

I'm referring to the little round tube shaped device in a fluorescent light fitting.

Is there any simple way to test these? Normally I just replace suspect ones but a 4 tube recessed fitting in which one of the bulbs had failed had a n ew starter and tube fitted yesterday. Without switching on and off the ligh t it all worked fine but this morning when the lights were switched on thes e two tubes won't start up.

I replaced the two adjacent starters but no joy. I switched the two starter s from the other two tubes which were working. No joy. I then replaced the two working starters in the two previously working lights with two new ones . Now they wouldn't work either but returning their original starters and t hey functioned fine.

Either I have a box of duff starters (Unlikely as I've already used a few o f them successfully) or this particular fitting uses different starters fro m the rest of the fittings in the room or I don't know w.t.f. I'm doing.

Anyone got a clue ?

[Bob Minchin]

Correct operation is a balance between the striking voltage of the starter and the running voltage of the tube. The starter strike voltage needs to be higher. What those voltages are I don't know, you would have to measure them on a known good lamp/choke/starter setup At one time starters had to be matched to tube length/power but the move to universal starters makes the operating margins more critical.

I have two electronic starters (same package style) and they have been going reliably since 1985.

One really troublesome light, years ago I made a starter with a light sensor so that it kept trying until the tube struck. A novelty solution but hardly economic.

I'd buy electronic replacements or better still change to a high frequency , high efficiency ballast units. 5 of those in my workshop work faultlessly.

[Bob Eager]

Not all starters are equal. They have a wattage rating (a range for the tube being started). Might be a problem if it's (say) an 80-100W starter and it's a 60W tube (example only, no idea of true values offhand).

[Harry Bloomfield]

Bob Eager wrote on 07/07/2015 :

In addition I would also suggest that some lights can refuse to work with some choke/tube combinations anyway, even if the starter is the correct range.

[tabbypurr]

es but a 4 tube recessed fitting in which one of the bulbs had failed had a new starter and tube fitted yesterday. Without switching on and off the li ght it all worked fine but this morning when the lights were switched on th ese two tubes won't start up.

ers from the other two tubes which were working. No joy. I then replaced th e two working starters in the two previously working lights with two new on es. Now they wouldn't work either but returning their original starters and they functioned fine.

of them successfully) or this particular fitting uses different starters f rom the rest of the fittings in the room or I don't know w.t.f. I'm doing.

The tubes are likely to be run in series pairs, in which case 110v or 'seri es' starters are needed. And as mentioned, check also that the starter powe r rating matches the tubes in use.

NT

[Brian-Gaff]

Old style choke and starter and capacitor fittings were also notorious for not starting in cold weather, but for some reason this seems not to affect the electronic starters whichof course do not need all the other kit in the old fittings. Amazing. I used to have one old fitting from Wollies that would only start tubes you held you hand on for about 30 seconds if the temp was below 50 deg f.

Very odd. Brian

[Harry Bloomfield]

Brian-Gaff pretended :

Not really. The heaters in the ends of the tube, were there to bring the tube up to a temperature at which it could strike.

Tubes, sometimes new tubes used to need a bit of help before they would strike. The laying on of hands, provided an extra ground, despite the extra ground being outside of the tube.

A trick was to wet a finger and draw a wet line from the grounded cap along the tube.

Long ago you could even buy tubes with a conductive line along its length, to aid starting.

[Fredxxx]

I'm surprised. I would have thought the purpose of a starter is to breakdown, and for heat to close contacts for short period of time to allow the heaters to get hot and on the contacts opening for the tube to strike.

Either way, on 230/240V mains I would expect for the starter to see the full mains and strike. I can't believe the resistance of the filaments, impedance of the choke would make a significant difference, apart from a short delay in coming together.

I'm wondering if the OP can see any glow from within the starter, or if it's dark?

My thought was also to buy electronic ballasts but they come at very different prices and not really confident to compare makes/prices.

The electronic ballasted fittings I got are great for no nonsense instant light.