Tapcon ... or alternative

[Rick Hughes]

I have to fix some 50 x 50 wood uprights to brickwork pillars ... using

10mm frame fixing where hole is reasonably centre of bricks. Sods law for a couple of them the mortar perp is on the centreline. Even if I offset hole ... the 10mm hole would be very close to edge of brick.

Thought instead of in these instances fixing either side of perp with something like a 5mm TapCon fixing ... as hole to be drilled is then small diameter (5mm compared to 10mm)

Any view on TapCon ... or is there something better ... I can't use chemical anchor as cant have stud showing fixing must be csk into wood.

Advice experience on TapCon, Thunderbolt, concrete screws, etc ?

[Weatherlawyer]

Looks like a lot of work and you are still on the joint.

Coudln't you use brackets to reach the centres of the bricks? You could even knock some up out of old soup tins.

[Rick Hughes]

No maybe my description is wrong .... lower fixing allows me to use 10mm frame anchors ... in some of the case the upper fixing if I drilled on centreline of wood, is about 1/2" form the brick edge - i.e. near the perp.... so no good.

However if instead I use a 'thin' fixing (such as Tapcon) and I could fit theses and be at least 1" in from brick end

I know window installers use them all the time ... but never used them myself.

[The Medway Handyman]

Thunderbolts should do the jobs - zero expansion.

[Rick Hughes]

If for example I bought these in M8 x 100 .... is the fixing hole then an M8 drill ?

[Phil L]

Spax are about the best...I'd use 100mm so as to get 50mm+ bite, they're

7.5mm diameter, don't expand and they'll grip into just about anything.

[The Medway Handyman]

With the Toolstation ones yes.

[Phil Addison]

Or 6mm Tapcon CSK from screwfix

I don't think I've really understood your problem. I take it you're worried about hitting the vertical mortar joints? In which case why can't you drop the screws to the next course of bricks below (or above) where they would then be dead centre of brick? If thats not an option how about raking out the vertical mortar and hammering in a wood wedge

- thats what the skirtings were nailed into in our victorian place. Then you can use cheap woodscrews.

Another way is to rake out and refill with either new mortar or plaster, then when set drill and plug and use woodscrews. You can also counterbore the uprights 1/2 way to allow shorter screws. A bit fidley to get screws and plugs lined up, but do-able with some forethought and careful measurement.

-- Phil Addison

[Rick Hughes]

a wood wedge

can use cheap

way to allow

No ... not quite ... the hole if on centerline of timber ... and would be on mortar perp ..I'm concerned that the 'hole' even if I offset it in the timber would be close to the end of the brick - and risk the end of brick 'breaking off.

I have now gone and bought 'Thunderbolts' the 8mm hole went in OK ... as long as they don't put sideways force on (as spec states) then all should be fine.

Wood drilled, brick drilled ... wood treatment on last night ... will have to wait to next weekend to fix.

[Phil Addison]

of brick? If

in a wood wedge

can use cheap

way to allow

Is it just me that can't understand Rick-speak? Has anyone worked out what he is doing and what the problem is ...

... (or was)?

-- Phil Addison