Replace bearings in Hotpoint WM64 washing machine

Have you undone the locking tab of the nut ? It should be a metal strip folded up around part of the edge on the nut. Are you tuning it the right way ?

Reply to
BigWallop
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After 8 years of service (ok not completely trouble free but thats another story ...), the bearings on out Hotpoint WM64 have finally gone.

Their is rusty water on rear housing of drum, the drum "clanks" when lifted vertically. I have got the front off and can see the inner drum, now just need to undo the rear external nut holding the inner drum in place. Its

30mm, ok, I've got a socket which fits (thank you Draper, money well spent), but obviously the drum rotates. I've tried holding the inner drum with my other hand (spring twangs but no joy) any tips on getting this bad boy loose ?!?!

Many Thanks

Toby

Reply to
Technical I.T. Ltd

On Fri, 21 May 2004 10:21:00 +0100, in uk.d-i-y "Technical I.T. Ltd" strung together this:

What you have to do is hold on to the pulley, whilst giving the breaker bar, (I assume you're using one of those and not a ratchet based thing), a good braying with a solid object. If you have a helper it's a lot easier.

Reply to
Lurch

Nope, no locking tab. I am assuming the default lefty loosy, righty tighty here, cant quite see the thread, its not a reverse thread is it ?

Reply to
Technical I.T. Ltd

Ok, got the breaker bar bit (I was using a rachet but I have a breaker bar). But the braying ? I have to hold a solid object aloft and shout at the breaker bar ?!

If you mean wallop, I'll give it a go, its just holding the (very sharp !) pully and stopping it rotating, do engineers have a "special tool" to do this ?

Many thanks for replying.

Toby

Reply to
Technical I.T. Ltd

It depends on the machine now a days. Can you run a finger nail around an exposed part of the thread. You should feel your finger being drawn in or pushed away depending on the turn direction.

Is the nut self locking ? Looking at the nut, does it have a plastic insert in the thread ?

Reply to
BigWallop

Yes, it's called the handle of a hammer, or the shaft of a big spanner, jammed between the moulding of the outer drum and the pulley wheel.

Reply to
BigWallop

On Fri, 21 May 2004 15:29:20 +0100, in uk.d-i-y "Technical I.T. Ltd" strung together this:

Yep, that's the one!

A block of wood wedged in the right place can do the job. I usually carry a 2' piece of 2"x2" and a metal bar in when doing this job.

Reply to
Lurch

I carved a piece of softwood so that it was narrower at one end than the other, making a wedge that fitted between two of the pulley spokes and into a recess in the back of the tub. My hotpoint has a left hand thread but yours may differ.

Reply to
Bob Eager

Thanks BigWallop and Lurch for the advice, it worked in the end ...

I used a 30cm bar connected to 30mm socket, jammed a hammer handle between drum and pulley. But no matter how much a walloped it no go. Reflecting back on my physics lessons, I ended up using half the metal tubing from my Vax hoover as an extender bar !! Nut turned real easy, didnt need to wallop it. I remember having to use same method for front hub on my Honda when I replaced the disc cylinders ...

Now, I would have thought the pulley wheel would just slide off the rear bolt, or I could pull the inner drum out. Jeez this thing must be welded ! I know my bearings have seezed but ...

I've tried walloping the rear bolt, tried pulling and jolting inner drum but no joy.

?
Reply to
Technical I.T. Ltd

Ah, the pulley wheel unscrews ...

Many thanks for the help

Toby

Reply to
Technical I.T. Ltd

On Mon, 24 May 2004 10:31:37 +0100, "Technical I.T. Ltd" strung together this:

I was about to say that!

Glad you've sorted it.

Reply to
Lurch

On Wed, 26 May 2004 16:38:43 +0100, "Technical I.T. Ltd" strung together this:

Now you're screwed, I hate it when that happens! We've been known to use a variety of homemade tools to remove those, there's not really a tool you can buy that will just 'pull it out'. Various combinations of lump hammers, bars, washers, sockets, bearing pullers, chisels and anything else that might do the job are what you need!

Nope, think about it, if that worked then every time the tub filled with hot water the bearings would fall out. Just tell her stick to the washing up!

Reply to
Lurch

Ah, spoke too soon ...

The replacement bearings arrived today. Looks like I've left the outer ring of the rear bearing in the drum. Now these definately dont unscrew ! Any tool to remove this chappy ? I've tried hammering out fron inside drum with a screwdriver. Seem to need something more to shift it ...

Any ideas ?

BTW the other half suggested soaking the plastic in hot water. Well the ideas sound, just not practical really !

Reply to
Technical I.T. Ltd

It depends whether (like mine) there is a ridge at the rear of the bearing that it seats against. And if that ridge covers the whole of the outer ring. I used a cold chisel and a club hammer (following advice on here).

I guess a hairdryer might heat up the drum a bit...

Reply to
Bob Eager

Tried most of those, though a socket ... good idea ...

On the subject of bearing pullers, and cant see how it works ...

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the central bit needs to push against something when its screwed up/down to pull the bearing out ?

Reply to
Technical I.T. Ltd

On Wed, 26 May 2004 17:39:11 +0100, "Technical I.T. Ltd" strung together this:

Make sure it's an old one, or one that you don't want anymore, surprisingly thrashing them with a lump hammer makes them a bit odd shapewise!

Yes, well, it's a new use of the tool! What you do, (or rather what I did once), is\was to turn the llegs so they are faciing outwards, then wedge them in the ring of the outer bearing. Now tighten up the bearing pullers so the centre nut is pushing the legs into the bearings groove. Now thrash it with a lump hammer and pointy thing! When you've retrieved all the bits from the other side of the back garden a few times when the pullers have slipped out you might just loosen it. When it's out you'll also find that your chisels blunt and the pullers are totally knackered.

(On another note to the whole group, I'm getting fed up of deleting stray letters in my recent posts, I've just set up a new machine and the kkeyboard just decides how many letters it wants on the screen, not me! I'll get a new keyboard next time I'm out, just bear with me.)

Reply to
Lurch

It did it, long reach socket (spark plug type). After about 10 hits the inner ring flew clean across the kitchen !!! It really is strange how the right tool and that. Spent over an hour with a screwdriver and hammer ...

Ah, now that I can help with. Assuming your keyboard hasnt had spillage of some kind (tea/coffee), a good shake dissloges sticky stuff (personally I cant turn down a good chelsea bun, you woudnt beleive the amount of sticky sugar I get out my keyboard !). Failing that, chuck it, after all a bog standard keyboard can set you back a Pavaroti these days.

Lastly (promise), I've got some 20/50 and I've oiled the inside of the drum and inner drum shaft (hopefully trying to avoid doing this in 2 years time again). Should I soak the NEW bearings in oil overnight or are they "ready to go" ?

Finally an observation, my external bearing actually came apart, I found the balls actually in the channel, which is why all I had left was the outer ring of the bearing. Interestingly enough the ball race of the outer bearing (what the balls are held by) is made of plastic yet the inner bearing ball race is made of metal ! Hmm ...

Reply to
Technical I.T. Ltd

On Wed, 26 May 2004 18:32:41 +0100, "Technical I.T. Ltd" strung together this:

Ingenuity, that's all it takes!

And anything else that's likely to be in it, ISTR one of the kids wanging iit out of the front door in a muddy puddle, but I've got that many keyboards I couldn't remember if it was this one, I'm beginning to think it is!I'm beginning to think it is! Unfortunately it's the only one with a PS2 plug and I can't find any adaptors!

Yep, I''ve got a few nice keyboards but they're all in Sheffield, I'll have to pick one up next time I'm passing!

Nope, I wouldn't oil any of the bearings as the whole point of them is that the inner part of the bearings spin and the outer parts don't! Oil doesn't help with the staying of the outer bit of the plan. Oiling the shaft isn't always a good idea as it can end up in the wash, now you know how to do it it won't take you long next time! And another thing, if you stop overloading the drum it will last a lot longer than 2-3 years!

Reply to
Lurch

The directions I got said to soak the spider shaft (what you call the inner drum shaft) in oil where it contacts the inner race of the bearing (you ARE using a new shaft, aren't you?). And I also assume you have a new seal for the front?

Reply to
Bob Eager

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