Renovating a kitchen

[Doctor Drivel]

Are you having heat recovery chutes? Ina cold climate it is dumb idea.

[Doctor Drivel]

yep.

[Stuart Noble]

A batten to rest the top units on makes life a lot easier. Then you can fix the first one and clamp the others from the front as you go. That way everything is guaranteed level at the front, even if gaps develop at the back through wavy walls. Best (and I would say essential) to level and fix the base, and worktop, before doing anything with the wall units

[robert]

Yes - the requirement is for an improvement on our existing 2 bin setup, one of which is a bright orange bucket.

[Peter]

Agreed. Base first then wall units. Apart from anything else they are designed to be inline.

Also, dont assume that your carpenter can fit 45 degree angled worksurfaces whilst restricted by the wall units.(depends on your layout.)

My preferred sequence. base units wall unit brackets worktops hang wall units tiling (gives full tiles onto worksurface and since wall units have a 'backspace' full tiles pushed up behind wall units with occasional cuts where the cupboard sides touch the wall).

Peter

[The Natural Philosopher]

..Add MDF sheet between worktop and cupboards to hide wires and give a proper flat surface for tiling..

[The Medway Handyman]

Temporarily become a student, then you are legally obliged to steal milk crates. Oh, and traffic cones.

[Jason]

I'll dig it out of the shed and get a picture of it in action.

- JJ

[Jason]

That's the one - great big ugly lump of grey plastic with the separate Xpelair controller.

-- JJ

[Jason]

...or, make use of the heat loss. Insulate a cupboard walls and door instead, and leave the back of the cupboard open to the bare external wall. Instant cool cupboard for your veg in Winter!

Well, it's worth a try.

-- JJ

[robert]

Many thanks for all the suggestions to date. I will now expand my plan with the advice where there is a consensus such as tile to the top of a worktop and do not actually hang the wall units until the base units are in place.

Any other suggestions based on experience gratefully received.

[Mike]

Just as well you quoted enough of the previous message to make your reply understandable :)

[george (dicegeorge)]

Why strip the plaster? Why not attach the kingspan to the exisitng plaster, then put the vapour barrier on the inside of the kingspan?

Isnt plaster permeable?

Or would condensation occur there?

Is the removal of the plaster just to gain an inch of space?

[Bruce]

Is this something that can just be skimmed, or do you need to apply the usual two coats of plaster?

[robert]

In message , "george (dicegeorge)" writes

Given that cavity wall insulation is in place I wonder if the installation of the additional foam layer would produce a verifiable measurable benefit with a payback that will compensate for the work involved.

[Doctor Drivel]

You have point. If an inch is neither here nor there in the room, go straight onto the plaster.

[Doctor Drivel]

It probably would. It all adds up. It is not going to be an upheaval to do it at this stage, so you may as well do it. The R factor can be calculated. Even with cavity wall insulation it will make a significant difference to heating the room.

[Doctor Drivel]

Skimmed. Some is pre-finished and may require plaster at the joints.

I have seen the effects on an outside wall in a bathroom. It was tiled over, so no plastering skills needed. As the tiles were no longer a cold surface there was never running condensation either. The bathroom was deathly cold, as many are, any longer.

It will make a significant difference to any room. Fuel is not getting any cheaper, and it looks like only going one way.

[Bruce]

[Doctor Drivel]

The R factor of some of it is quite high. Celotex and Kingspan and others, have all the details. As you doing up a room installing this sort of insulation adds value and eventually you may have far less need for heating.