RCD - Least Likely o they can fail, but it seems they either fail "on" or refuse to ever turn "on" o my MEM 100A 30ma RCD was confirmed faulty, it was 8-10yrs old, lots of trips/usage
N-to-E wiring interaction - More likely o typical area is inside a socket or switch
---- even PVC insulation will cold-creep if two wires are pressured together
---- this is one reason why the Earth conductor in FTE is insulated o less likely is a damaged cable during installation or other finishing
---- nails or screws can be knock thro a cable, and damage insulation o temperature/humdity/vibration can all cause triggering
---- cables move slightly with temperature & vibration (floorboards)
---- during an RCD trip insulation may carbonise re-insulating for a time
Appliance fault - Equally likely o Appliances with mineral insulated heating elements can suffer leakage
---- the insulation breaks down (eg, washing machine, dryer, storage heater) o Appliances leak more than others
---- PC PSUs used to leak by design quite an amount to the earth rail
---- suppression etc could cause 3.5ma to be routinely leaked o Cables to the appliance can have breakages inside
---- this more usually make themselves known quite readily & spectacularly o However an appliance MAY leak a bit, BUT is not the actual cause
---- a 30ma RCD may take 20ma to trip, the appliance is leaking 6ma (too much)
---- however that just means a wiring fault elsewhere need be just 14ma to trip it
---- so whilst a washer being on aggravates the fault, it may not be the cause
The method of testing is: o Switch the main-switch OFF
---- inspect carefully every switch & socket in the house
---- specifically check all E bare wires are green-yellow sleeved (not bare)
---- specifically re-position carefully all wires so N & E do not touch in the backbox
-------- this is somewhat difficult, but at least avoid N & E wires crushed together o Unplug all non-essential appliances
---- turning them off just removes their L connection to the house wiring
---- unplugging them removes their L, N & E connection to the house wiring
---- identify if any change/improvement in tripping characteristic o Switch off all non-essential MCB circuits
---- removes L connection to the RCD
---- leaves N & E of those circuits STILL connected to the RCD (touch N to E still trips) o For each switched-off MCB, disconnect & insulate the N & E tails in the CU
---- insulate the tails in simple terminal strip cut-offs for safety
---- now you have removed the L, N & E of those circuits from the RCD o Repeat disconnect MCB (L) & MCB N-&-E for all remaining circuits
---- eventually you will discriminate which circuit is at fault
---- if all circuits are disconnected L, N & E then the RCD/suppy are at fault
The disconnecting of circuits from the MCB & N+E can find faults in the CU itself. Not uncommon to find an N-to-E pressure point in older wiring in the CU itself.
Obviously if you have outside lighting or outbuilding connected to the same CU, then you should entirely disconnect those (L+N+E) first - not uncommon to find a seal has gone on a light and an intermittent leakage path is being created there.
You can also: o Use a megger to measure insulation resistance on each cable
---- you MUST disconnect FIXED appliances which state they are damaged if megger'd
---- typically that is smoke alarms o The problem is you don't have a non-resettable RCD
---- you have an intermittent problem, so testing may not find the fault
---- however typically a megger will indicate suspicious circuits
Meggers can be hired from ~£25-45/week, they can be bought on Ebay for £85 & up. However, frankly I'd at least check all sockets & switches first.
Now, is it an old RCCB or is it a modern whole-house RCD? o If the CU installation is old it is worth replacing with a Split-Load CU
---- split-load is where some circuits are off the RCD
-------- eg, Lights Up/Down + Cooker + Water-Heater + Fridge
---- some circuits are on the RCD
-------- eg, ring-main sockets, cooker sockets etc o Once you have a split-load-CU you can fit RCBOs to individual circuits
---- you move a circuit off the RCD onto the non-RCD side
---- you then add an RCBO to that circuit so that *individual* circuit is protected
---- thus you can create a system allowing circuit-discrimination
You also want to verify Earth Bonding is up to spec - very often it is not.
Finding intermittent RCD leaks can be expensive in electricians time. So some simple checks can be helpful.
Remember RCDs do not necessarily prevent fires - an L-N short will happily heat away until either the MCB trips due to overcurrent or L-E or N-E becomes involved. Found a nice piece of butyl carbonised that had been disconnected at one end, but not the other.
Butyl breaks down due to 1) Ozone and 2) Heat conducted from the plug-pins/socket-grips, particularly so where over 30-50yrs the terminal screws back-off slightly as copper cold-flows. The same applies to PVC - it just takes a bit longer, but rapidly cooks the insulation to brittle. Moisture & temperature is also a factor, I've noticed BASEC PVC FTE cable on unheated areas goes to a hard quite unstrippable material after ~20yrs. Escalate attempts to discriminate which of appliance/circuit/CU/RCD as the problem continues - or itself escalates (ie, RCD doesn't reset).