New lid needed for coal/log bunker

I need to replace the lid of our coal/log store; this is a very simple block-built structure with a sloping (rotten) timber lid which just lifts up just like a car bonnet. No need to be attached with hinges etc, it's just a rough slab.

Ideally I'd like to replace it with something in uPVC or plastic or something (but where would I find that?); failing that would a lump of

0.75" WBP ply do? Would it last if painted, or would it need covering in roofing felt or something (which would in turn imply to me that a lip would be needed around the edge to give it some depth...

Dimensions are 48"x61". Any thoughts on an easy, quick'n dirty solution appreciated :)

Reply to
Lobster
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The shed have polcarnnonate roofing sheets or corrugated plastic.

4' x 5' will be heavy.

Proper WBP ply wouldn't need any treatment but would go green on the top.

I'm planning to use onduline on a treated timber frame for a lid to the water butt a 2'6" x 3' x 3' repurposed galvanised water tank. I have sneaking feeling that the sheet sizes will be "just wrong" for your size. They are 950 x 2000 mm, cover width 850 mm.

Reply to
Dave Liquorice

12 mm plywood (ideally wbp but how long do you want it to last), tanalised roofing battens on the underside "inside" the store to stop it slipping, maybe an extra one in the middle as a stiffener, and a couple of coats of fence proofer. Or even Stirling board.
Reply to
newshound

Lobster scribbled...

Tarp nailed to a frame.

Reply to
Artic

On 2013-09-09, Artic >

S'what I did with our log store. Beware of "flogging".

Reply to
Huge

I need to replace the lid of our coal/log store; this is a very simple

When faced with the same problem I made one from some T&G left over from a shed build, mine is hinged though.

Mike

Reply to
Muddymike

It is easier to handle if it is hinged (and less likely to blow away).

Mine is made of old floorboard offcuts nailed to a couple of battens with an offcut of butyl pondliner Evostuck down and wrapped over the edges. Logs are under a former side of a shed behind the garage.

UPVC would be rather expensive for this duty but is available eg.

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Don't make it too light or it will blow away in the first strong winds. I have seen large sheets of galvanised steel flying though the air here!

Reply to
Martin Brown

WBP is a waste of time. It will de-laminate due to the internal voids. Get Marine ply. More expensive but will outlast WBP by a long chalk. Make sure you have a decent slope on it so water can't collect. Give it a good primer and undercoat and then a few top coats. Best finish for outdoor furniture I have tried is Epifanes yacht varnish. Used it on a garden seat about 6 ye ars ago and apart from annual touch up of small areas its as good as new.

Or you could always try a sheet of corrugated roofing material. Either corr ugated iron or one of the plastic versions the sheds stock

Reply to
fred

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