Making a template for extractor fan hood

[TRK's Dad]

Hello

I'm looking for some advice on how to produce a template which will be used to produce a glass splashback to go behind my hob. The problem is that we have a curved extractor hood above the hob and we would like the glass to as close up to the hob as possible. All of the suppliers we've spoken to have insisted that we supply a template for them to follow. I've taken some photos of the hood, it's a Miele one - this is the entry on the Miele website (and Miele UK say they don't provide templates for this sort of thing)

?c_photo=52633506?c_photo=52633539 had thought about somehow making a template out of cardboard or thin mdf. However, as you'll see from the photos the curve is comlicated by the actual extractor part and there is no gap to speak of between the curved glass bit and the wall you could slide something so that you could draw the curve on some cardboard. However, you can get a bit of paper between the wall and the glass (you can see several sheets of A4 stuck to the wall in the pictures) so perhaps I could get a big bit of paper, slide it between the wall and the glass, draw the curve and then transfer that onto cardboard or thin mdf.

Does anyone have any better ideas ?

Thanks

[Brian Sharrock]

> > > > > I had thought about somehow making a template out of cardboard or thin

For my glass 'splashback' which is mounted behind the hob, and spans the work-surface to extractor canopy with a jog for the extractor mechanism I produced a paper template by blu-tack' 'ing pieces of paper to the wall and mounted the extractor with its glass canopy to the wall; I then drew, using a black felt-tip pen , around the canopy-fan control box. [I had to demount the hood then remount it] Tip one; *** if using several pieces of A4/A3; mark each sheet with 'witness marks' crossing each sheet interface as well as numbering each sheet! Tip two: *** discuss with your glazier where the mounting holes are to be _and_ get them to supply the fixings - you'll need 'top-hat' inserts (a black plastic 'top-hat' tubing that penetrates the glass and through which the chrome-capped mirror screws are inserted). It's cheap to buy these items off the glazier but impossible to source the b*****s from the Sheds! The glass will need to be chamfered and tempered by the glaziers. Once tempered the glass can _not_ be drilled; filed or any work carried out. [Tempering kinda turns the glass into a 'solid' balloon - any scratch through the 'skin' will cause it to 'burst' like a ballroom]; hence the necessity of getting the mounting holes inserted by the glaziers - but; you probably knew that : ) . I applied a clear silicon seal (bought from the glaziers) at the interface between the canopy/splashback.

[Roly]

I used a very similar technique for a comparable job, using paper taped to the wall, but in order to guarantee the registration, I used printed graph paper, you can mark northings and eastings on it if you want and the whole lot can be taken down and then reassembled accurately.

These days I'd use a laser level to make sure that the sheets were straight, but when I did it, I just used a spirit level and plumb line, combined with sighting along the lines by eye.

The reassembled shape was then cut out of thick card ( fridge box ) and tried against the object before cutting a proper template.

[Lobster]

If you can get paper between the glass and the wall, then just do that: I don't really see what the problem is. Use broadsheet newspaper or lining (wall) paper.

(BTW I can't get your photobucket links to work - they seem to want me to log in with a username/pswd.)