For the past 4/5 years I've had a (cheap - £100) rotary petrol mower. I
wish I had bought one 20 years ago - no more trailing wires, cuts long
wet grass, cuts the grass in about quarter of the time I spent with
various versions of hover/flymo.
Recommendation 1 - get a mower with grass collection - larger hover
mowers don't work that well with a full grass box.
Recommendation 2 - depending on the size of your lawn, get a petrol
mowers we bought a McCulloch petrol rotary for about £80 in the Argos autumn
sale. We were going to buy a higher end electric Flymo (who are
interestingly the same group as McCulloch, Electrolux I think) but we were
amazed at how thin the plastic was. The McCulloch in comparison has much
sturdier plastic components. We have only used it a few times but it seems
fine and the job now takes about a third of the time. The only thing that
doesn't seem very good are the "pressed steel" type carburettor components
Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com ).
I got a decent powered electric rotary (yellow body, Alko?). The hassle of a
trailing cable is outweighed IMO by the quietness, lack of pollution & lack
of maintenance hassles etc. What does tend to go wrong with these types
however is the plastic peg coupling the drive disk (on the motor shaft) to
the blade shears off making the mower extremely wimpy when tackling
longish/damp grass. Easily fixed with a metal bolt.
The only other hassle is the small grass basket, but the petrol mower I
borrowed from my neighbour when my electric was in above wimpy state (before
I'd sussed what was wrong and fixed it) wasn't any better, and you had to
keep restarting it after emptying the basket.
On Mon, 16 Feb 2004 15:48:10 +0000, The Natural Philosopher wrote:
The woodruff key holding the diecast boss to the shaft didn't shear,
got a slight dinge on one edge from the shaft. The diecast pins on the
boss loacting the blade did shear. And when I saw that I thought "Hey,
nice feature have weak pins that shear if the blade hits something
rather too immmovable". So bought new boss and blade fitted 'em,
Oh no you don't, see above. 3/4" dia crank bent 10 to 15 degrees from
true. Had to cut it off right against the oil seal and prise the oil
seal out before just managing to get the crankshaft down the bearing
Dave. pam is missing e-mail
cylinder for many years it's so much easier - you don't have to worry about
the grass being a bit damp. I went for one with a rear roller, which I find
is good for going along the edges - I guessed that one with 4 wheels would
not be as easy. I also went for one which propels itself along - my wife
said "in 10 years time, you'll be glad of that". Although that did make it a
bit more expensive.
Best choice, I agree. Go for a Honda engine if you can, in my experience of 3
different engines they run quietest and start very easily. I had trouble with a
Briggs & Stratton engine although I hear they've improved a lot since then.
Whatever you do, give Tecalemit engines the elbow (they're Italian) One other
thing, mowers with a rear roller (like Hayter) are much easier to handle on lawn
edges than the ones with 4 wheels, which tend to slip off the edge and chew up
the lawn. They give a nicer finish too.
On Sun, 15 Feb 2004 17:52:07 -0000, "Peter Taylor"
Maybe it's just me, but I found the B&S engine on my previous lawnmower a
damn sight easier to start than my current Honda model. It had one of those
bulb things on the inlet to squirt extra fuel in for starting, and this was
nearly 100% effective. The Honda has a, well, extra position on the
throttle lever. It won't start without it, but it's hardly one pull and
I have one nerve left and you're getting on it...
Briggs and strattons work well as long as they are not clapped out and
have fresh petrol in them.
Stale petrol screws em up. the first start after the winter is always a
On my ride on, the only thing that really worked porperly after 10 years
was the briggs and stratton engine, and the only time it failed to start
was with two year old petrol in it. And a dead battery. The rest of it
was totally shagged (westwood it was).
We have had several electric hovers and even a petrol hover last time.
The petrol was the better one, but even that wasn't without its
problems. This time around we were looking at the smaller ride-on
types, though we settled on 4hp self driving petrol rotary type with
I think we made the right choice, its surprisingly quicker than an
hover and much less tiring due to the self-drive. It also stalls much
less than the petrol hover did in the tall grass after it had been
allowed to grow for a while.
The only trouble is the grass box needing to be emptied and the drive
wheels slipping when the ground is a little too wet. You let go of the
satety to empty the box and obviously the engine stops, then needs to
be restarted after the box is refitted.
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