All, I am looking to replace the doors on the kitchen units i nthe flat I am about to purchase (signing this morning !!!). I have measured them up and they appear to correlate with the dimensions that B&Q sell. Is this a coincidence, or are units a 'standard' size, in the same way that under-the-counter appliances like washing achines seem to be ??
Cheers, Neil.
They do seem to be more or less, at least for the main items like wall and floor cupboards. You start to see some variations in specific items like L-shaped cupboards, boxes for extractors and units for built in ovens. They have a basic standard size for the appliance but the pieces above and below may vary in how they are used.
You also get variations in sizes where units have doors and drawers in one unit.
You will also find that not all combinations of door are available in all ranges.
.andy
To email, substitute .nospam with .gl
They are a standard width - 300mm, 400mm, 500mm, 600mm less a few mm to allow opening and adjustment. 'Full height' will be a standard, to take u.t.c. appliances. Drawer height could vary, probably not very much though.
Hi Neil
Base units will generally be 'drawer line' or some similar name with a nominal 180mm drawer face height and 540mm door below it.
If you don't want the drawer you'll use a 720mm door, to go from top to bottom.
Typical plinth (and hence leg) height is 150mm, giving 870mm from floor to underside of worksurface. A 30mm worktop takes you to the nominal worksurface hight of 900mm.
Standard wall units use the 720mm door. Short ones the 540mm door, tall ones a 900mm door (this continues the multiples of 180mm trend).
You might also find other heights to suit pan drawers, and the like.
Larder doors are often made up of two smaller doors with a joining strip, and look pretty naff because of if, IMHO.
How do they compare with your measurements?
HTH IanC
Yep - all sounds about right. B&Q are doing a sale at the moment too, so it looks like I'll be saving a few quid. Thanks for the info everyone. Oh, One more question - whats the best way to make the 'hole' for the hinges - usual chisel work or are there any handy short-cuts / alternatives ??
In message , NC writes
Chiselling round holes for them would be entertaining.
Use a proper cutter, I put a few into some bathroom doors I made and used one like this:
or possibly the larger one, I forget which hinges I used.
I just held this freehand in a power drill, but a drill stand (or a pillar drill) would help keep it all square, keep the depth right etc.
Main thing is to get the hole in the right place. I made up a little 'jig' from hardboard to make this process a little quicker and more accurate
Alternatively I presume that you can get suitable cutters for routers to do this as well.
Most doors (i.e. MFI/B&Q) will come with hinge holes ready drilled. These aren't in standard positions. It is easier to buy the correct hinges for the door and then attach them to the carcase at the appropriate point than attempt to drill the door for the correct hinge position and size.
Christian.
alternatives
If you have a local Ikea, have a look there too. I just got a couple of Nexus doors, 50 x 70 cms, for 10 quid each, which is a lot less than B&Q and I prefer the Ikea ones. Their hinges are about 2 quid a pair and just lock into the door, without screws. You probably need to drill new mounting holes in the cupboard carcass rather than moving the hinge cut-outs in the doors.
Geoff
HomeOwnersHub website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.