Next job is to replace the "shelf" that is about to fail to support this immersion heater.
I've drained the water (Mm) - any ideas as to how to remove the chipboard shelf without removing the tank? Skyhooks are not an option here. :-)
Wouldn't it be simpler to add a couple of transverse supports immediately under the tank, made of something like Dexion, 2x4, or whatever? Perhaps jack it from below first to straighten the shelf, if it's not already permanently distorted.
Is that a boiler immediately underneath, or something removable like a washing machine?
Whether or not you can remove the thing underneath, you really do need to organise something to lift the tank from above to get the load off the shelf.
An empty tank is not terribly heavy, even if you can't use joists or rafters above, you should be able to put some sort of beam across the space above the tank. You don't necessarily need a pulley block, if you have a rope or a strap of some sort around the tank with another two going up to and over the beam, one person should be able to lift the tank while another takes up the slack and fastens it somehow, leaving it clear of the shelf. Sods law says the shelf won't just slide out, but you could then cut it with something like a jigsaw or sabre saw either side of the tank.
Some of the pipes are going to be a bit in the way, you might find it easier to cut or disconnect them, and then remake the runs afterwards.
First thing would be to move that tin of paint.
Bill
Why remove the shelf? Why not just jack it up under the tank (auto jack standing on something) to the level it would be on if the shelf hadn't bent, plus a bit, then strengthen it with crosspieces underneath?
Bill
That looks like a combined cylinder with cold water cistern in the top section... have you drained that but as well?
As others have said, you can probably just strengthen the shelf so long as the side supports are ok. Three lengths of 4x2 just under the width of the cupboard, drill holes through the worktop and screw down into the
4x2. As you add screws the shelf will be pulled straight.
Assuming the tank and pipes have survived the movement without obvious harm is it better to jack the tank up again or simply stabilise it "as is"?
I have no idea what is as a general rule the better appraoch - just wondering about the risks of reversing rapdily what may have been a slow process.
Do you really think a 40mm bit of high density chipboard kitchen worktop is going to "bend" back?
The bend is now well and truly set into the shelf, and is going to take an equal number of years to make it straight.
It will certainly flex a bit. But it won't matter as long as the tank is properly supported.
Bill
Of course, I feel this is all really for aesthetic reasons as the chunk of wood ought to be strong enough in its own right.
If it's Brilliant White, I'd put a couple of coats on the walls of the cupboard. Am I the only person who worries about the state of the decoration of their airing cupboard?
I hope the OP has not relied on draining the tank by use of the hot water piping:-)
+1 for that!
You appear to have *two* immersion heaters - neither of which is very heavy, so they're unlikely to have bent the shelf.
Seriously though, the hot cylinder and header tank are pretty heavy when full, and need supporting properly.
It will be difficult if not impossible to remove the shelf with the tank in place - not least because some of the pipes appear to pass through it. As others have suggested, the best approach my be to leave the shelf in place, and to brace it from below. It appears from the photo that there is something (washing machine?) under the shelf. If that is to stay, you may not have much spare headroom for additional structures. In that case, I would be inclined to use a couple of lengths of strong angle iron (like from an old bedstead), and screw them side to side under the shelf. The one at the back would be behind whatever appliance it is, so headroom shouldn't be an issue. The one at the front could be the other way up and could actually cover the nose of the shelf. May not look very pretty, but I assume it's normally hidden by a door.
+1 for the two bits of angle iron (provided there is room for the rear one). If the shelf is supported on a batten at the back, you might get away with just the front one. You don't necessarily need to support the front inverted one from the sides: it could go between the door frames, and fixed to the shelf with about five vertical 6 mm coach bolts. With penny washers on the top, tightening the bolts will tend to straighten up the bow in the shelf and should provide good support for even a full tank.
Many thanks all. Just in case - please, how to drain the tank(s) properly. I'm plumbing clueless.
Well, I'd be very careful as if the shelf has been bending so has the plumbing connecting it to the system.
Can you empty the system, that would make it lighter. Then leave the chipboard shelf and build supports underneath it to carry the weight. What clot used cheap chipboard in the first place? However do be sure there is no risk of the heater coming on during the work, and also watch for airlocks when turning the water back on.
A useful gadget for helping here is a length of strong hose that can be clamped to taps to pump mains water back up the system to remove those annoying hammerings due to trapped air. Also, if the tank is making a lot of noise, maybe you need to look at the heater and replace it now. Brian
But not out to the shed or garage if it's emulsion!
I've had nearly full 5 litre cans of emulsion in the garage ruined by freezing winter temperatures. So now the rule is that all water based paints live indoors. High VOC gloss could be a fire risk indoors so that goes in the garage.
I dunno (is not me) - it's been there many years though.
Draining the header tank is relatively easy. Just turn off the mains feed (or tie up the ballvalve) and open the hot tap on (say) the bath until water stops running.
That will leave the main cylinder full. Unless there's a drain-c*ck near the bottom [1] your pretty much stuffed.
There will be an external pipe which feeds cold water from the bottom of the header tank into the bottom of the hot cylinder. When you have a separate header tank, it's usually possible to disconnect this pipe above cylinder level, and rotate its lower connection to make the pipe horizontal to allow the cylinder to drain. But with an integral header tank like yours that pipe was probably factory installed with no undo-able fittings.
[1] Can't see one in the photo, but it could be round the back (fun!!) or hidden by the tin of paint.HomeOwnersHub website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.