Hi there,
A friend of mine has this washer dryer and it seems to be going into drying mode even when not selected. It tends to happen after an "interim"spin.
Here is a video which he says best describes the problem:
Hi there,
A friend of mine has this washer dryer and it seems to be going into drying mode even when not selected. It tends to happen after an "interim"spin.
Here is a video which he says best describes the problem:
Try
David used his keyboard to write :
Remove the rear cover and looking into the machine from the back, the PCB is on the left at the bottom corner nearest to you. Unplug it all, then take the PCB to where you have good light to examine it. Look especially at the electrolytic capacitors - their aluminium tops should be perfectly flat if the capacitors are good. Replace any which show any indication of doming of the aluminium, which indicates imminent failure.
Irrespective of any obvious problems, it might be worthwhile replacing them anyway, as they are a known regular cause of weird faults. Replace with same type, MFD and voltage or better (higher voltage rating).
Would it be better to replace the whole PCB?
If you're OK with a soldering iron it's fairly easy.
David formulated the question :
It took me 30minutes start to end, once I was advised that the usual fix is to simply replace the entire PCB. Armed with this knowledge I pulled the PCB out and inspected it and happened to spot the swollen capacitor. I already had the parts in stock, but you can get them from Maplins /Farnells etc. for a few pence.
Prior to even looking at it, I rang a local repair emporium describing the symptoms. They also said a new main PCB would sort it and it would cost around £220 installed. I then tracked down a cheap supplier of exchange PCB, they wanted £60.
£220 was close to the value of the washer, so I decided to just pull the PCB out and see if could spot any obvious problems - which paid off. My plan B was to order an exchange PCB. It has behaved itself since the repair several months ago.So no guarantee that it will definitely fix your problem, all I say is that it does cause some weird mis-behaviour, but if you can handle a soldering iron it is definitely worth a try.
Run a search on
In message , Harry Bloomfield writes
That's not actually true
I'm seeing capacitors lately which have naturally domed tops. DOn't ask me why, but we test them as a matter of course and so far not seen a single defective one. They have a pale blue coating on them
on 27/02/2010, geoff supposed :
If they are domed as delivered from the supplier, then I would be inclined to reject them. Domed is an indication of internal pressure, which usually means internal heat generated from them shorting internally. Under more extreme conditions they can push the rubber bung seal out from the base.
In message , Harry Bloomfield writes
I can't reject them - they come in on pcbs to repair
FFS read what I typed - they have naturally domed tops
... Or not
geoff submitted this idea :
So you are suggesting these have seen some use, are domed and you are even bothering to test them. Obviously they are on their way out and need replacing. In my experience, assuming no design faults, capacitor failures are the most likely cause of PCB faults and failures by a long way.
I read and understood perfectly what you wrote, apart from my assuming that these were new components.
Not impossible, but I have never come across any electrolytic which come from the factory like that. I agree they are never perfectly flat, but I would never describe them as domed.
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