Is there a good, quick, solvent for removing all traces of Gorilla Glue from objects it has been mistakenly covered with ?
Jim Hawkins
Is there a good, quick, solvent for removing all traces of Gorilla Glue from objects it has been mistakenly covered with ?
Jim Hawkins
bAZ
Angle grinder, IOW
michael adams
...
Thanks, Baz. Acetone it is.
Jim Hawkins
nope ..... an over application on wood is easy enough to remove with a sharp chisel ... if it has been smeared, then mechanical removal, and it will have soaked into grain.
On your hands, once dust and dirt have touched it ... only way to remove is scrubbing brush, soap & hard work.
When wet, expanding foam cleaner (basically acetone). Available in half litre aerosols from TS/SF etc.
I was half expecting that to be an Arthur Brown video.
Back in the early 80s, I made a batch of instrument necks by sandwiching a pre-cut aluminium blank between two pieces of timber, using epoxy. (Apart from the sonic effects, I was interested to find out if it was quicker to hand-carve a profile down to a predetermined pattern than to keep measuring as I went along) AFAIK the ones out in the "wild" are still going strong and the couple I have kicking around the house certainly are.
I understood that the problem with gluing aluminium was the oxide coating that formed on the surface so my approach was to glue the wood surfaces then use an abrasive on the aluminium faces immediately before clamping it all together.
By the way, I am aware of the failure of epoxy/aluminium joints in WWII aircraft but I suspect they were subject to way more stress than my guitar and mandolin necks.
Nick
No pores.
Bill
But the Gorilla has paws instead
I thought that expanding foam and gorilla glue were much the same thing. No?
My initial 'tests' were unintentional - some glue oozed onto the aluminium without being noticed. But it was easy to remove, which suggested that the plan to use it later on Al would be a mistake.
The advertising blurb says otherwise!
That could be the clue to correct gluing. You certainly have to use some method of gettting through the oxide when attempting a solder joint.
Thanks. Have to look for that next time I get the chance.
2 part epoxy is best, polyuretane is no good as it cant soak into any grain in the metal.
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