I need to make up a fairly complex shaped lead flashing to go around a pipe tomorrow. I fancy having a go at soldering the seams. I saw a programme on TV a couple of years ago when this was being done using a narrow strip of lead offcut as the solder but can't remember if any flux was used.
Is it necessary and if so what should I use? I have some Baker's Fluid and ordinary core solder as used in electronic work.
Scrape the oxide off before starting. Multicore should work, as would the plumbers solder and plumbers flux paste. I wouldn't use offcuts though as you would be welding rather than soldering! Plumbers solder will be "lead free" so have a higher melting point than multicore. I think Bakers' fluid (Zinc chloride solution with a bit of glycerine & alcohol?) will work but less convenient than pastes?
The correct way to work lead flashing is by welding using oxyacetylene. No flux is used. Cut a 10mm strip of lead to use as a filler rod. Remove the oxide from both surfaces using a paint scraper. For a butt joint, make sure that the surfaces join snugly. Mark a 6mm strip each side of the joint on the upper surface and shave the oxide off these. Then weld. Lap joints, mark a 6mm strip either side of the visible join and clean off oxide, and also 6mm strips on the mating surfaces and clean. Then weld.
"oxyacetylene"? Please?? An ordinary blow torch and ordinary solder and flux will do at a push. Many used sticks of grade D solder and "wiped" around the joint to tidy it up.
You can use no flux, as many did, by "lead burning". You need a directional burner on the blow torch and know what you are doing, otherwise lots of melted lead about.
My application is not strictly flashing. I am replaceing shiplap cladding on my house by vertical clay tiling. The overflows from the two tanks in my loft used to simply protrude through drilled holes in the shiplap. I want to avoid drilling the tiles and so I want to weld an open fronted lead box through which the pipes enter from the back and will protrude as far as the back of the tiles. The box will fit in between the tiling battens, and sealed to the pipes with silicone. I'll be putting in lead soakers behind the tiles in the regioon of the box. In the event of an overflow, the water will enter the box, run down over the soakers and appear as a wet patch indicating a problem. So normally the box will be dry and behind the tiles protected from the weather but I'd like to think of it properly welded ready for the day when it is needed. Below the tiling I have flat roof extension with giuttering to take away the water.
I'm quite sure my scheme is not the approved way but I think it meets the spirit of the regs as it indicates the problem and will keep the house dry and will look a lot nicer than pipes sticking out.
Umm you won't find many candles made from tallow. Candles are made from paraffin wax (the majority) and beeswax (particularly church candles). The only tallow candles I am aware of are sold for expedition use because they have the advantage of being edible.
Tallow is available in tubs from Screwfix and others.
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