Flue liner required for Rayburn

[Paul]

I'm getting some mixed responses regarding the necessity of having a flue liner for a **coal only** burning Rayburn.

What is the assembled expert's view please?

Thanks.

Paul.

[BigWallop]

What type of flue system do you have? If it's an old chimney, then have it smoke tested to see if it leaks anywhere other than the top pot. If it leaks, get the chimney re-lined. If it shows no signs of leakage, then leave it alone.

If you are connecting directly to a flue outlet on the Rayburn, then the need for a small section of flue pipe from the appliance to damper shelf of the chimney is needed, but you may also need a draw hood just before the final sealed plate at the damper shelf. The draw hood is like a small break with a cowl in the flue pipe. It allows air from the room to be drawn up the chimney when the Rayburn is either in use or not. If the Rayburn you've chosen has a sealed burner chamber, with a door, then a draw hood should really be used to keep air circulating up the chimney all the time. This is better for your house ventilation as well as your general health.

If you think that the system is better to have a complete flue from scratch, then go with your feeling about it. A completely new flue that you know is working and is healthy for you and the house is the best way to go with it.

[Mike]

I was told by my roofing guy that the building regs override this, though I'm not sure where. If this is a new installation then a flue liner must be installed.

[Paul]

Thanks for all the replies.

I took Yekal's advice and phoned Aga-Rayburn - and their advice was precisely that! The chimney dates from 1925. No obvious leaks when it was used earlier this year

What we will have is a Rayburn (Heatranger 216M) which has a sealed chamber. The smoke exits the Rayburn at a chamber which has a controllable vent to draw in air, and immediately before that a slide to restrict (or choke if you like) the flue opening. The flue itself rises about 12" and then takes a

135 degree elbow and other 12" before it goes into the chimney breast. This section of flue has a removable aperture for cleaning the chimney. Does that sould like what you were describing?

The Rayburn will be a direct replacement for a old Rayburn MF, and I understand that the 216M is virtually identical. Interesting what you say about keeping air flowing up even when not used, we will take that on board - thanks.

Ok, we'll see what the cost is. If it isn't that much, then we probably will. But I don't want to spend £££ on something that's unnecessary.

Regards,

Paul.

[BigWallop]

All of the information you give here sounds OK for the installation you're doing. But I would suggest you get a couple of PH Smoke Pellets and sit them in the chimney breast, either on top the Rayburn or on top of a biscuit tin, and make sure the chimney does have a good rise (draw) to clear the smoke from the room. This test will also make sure that you don't have any leaks into any other room from the chimney.

The flue set up from the new Rayburn also sounds fine, but with a proper smoke test first you'll know for sure. It's always best to do a smoke test on the flue, especially with solid fuel and gas fired appliances, just to make sure that the flue is going to take all the monoxides away properly. For a couple of pounds spent on proper PH Smoke Pellets, it's worth doing for your own health and safety.

Good luck with it.