Fixing studs to brick wall

[Dave Plowman (News)]

Countersink the holes.

But you hammer them in place first. Then a half turn or so afterwards. I've never had a problem with a decent large pozidriv screwdriver.

[stuart noble]

Only if you haven't drilled the correct size hole. 9.5 or 10mm IIRC.

[chris French]

In message , stuart noble

Depends on the size of the fixing, the one I used the other day required an 8mm hole.

But as others have said, the idea is you drive in using a hammer, tighten a little with a screwdriver if necessary. The cross head is really intended if you need to remove them.

[Paul Mc Cann]

Using thema a w weeksback I found that whereas a hammer would not drive them home, theyent before they would go all the way in, using slow speed on a battery drill would do the job niceley.

The real question is,what is the correct size screwdric=ve bit to use ? No. 2 appears to be the largest available but is too small for these fixings

[Dave Plowman (News)]

Err, they *have* to be hammered in fully - or as near as dammit. If you tighten them before this, the plug will expand in the brick and the screw jam against the plug end. They're not the same as a normal screw and wall plug.

For the largest size, I use a pozidriv bit for my socket set. Halfords etc sell them.

[Paul Mc Cann]

Err, I know. This is how I had used them previously. But this time, fixing 4x2 to a reinforced concrete wall they just wouldn't hammer. (In all cases I ensure the plastic plug is snug to the timber surface before having a go.) Bitter experience proved that hammering them first was a disaster. They just bent and at that stage screwdriving was impossible. I can send you the pics if you like ;-(

Never thought of that. Though one would think that the builders suppliers that sell the things would carry the right bits

[Rick Dipper]

Do you need to fix it to the wall ?

Why not just make a new wall neer the brick one, from 2*3, just like a partition wall. Then you fix to floor, ceiling, and edge. The VB can be stapled to the back of the wall somehow, and the insulation should just slot in.

Rick

[chris French]

In message , Rick Dipper writes

'Free-standing frame: I would prefer other options before if only because it's more work! It would also take more space'

[Dave Plowman (News)]

I must admit to being baffled. If your correct sized drill goes in far enough - and the hole isn't left full of dust or rubble - I don't see how the fixing can fail to hammer in fully.

[Dave Plowman (News)]

I've got a large screwdriver that fits ok, but the socket set bit used with the quick spinner makes for less hard work if you've got a few to do.

[Terry]

"G&M" wrote in message news:cji0fa$v45$ [e-mail]...

I don't know about regulations in your jurisdictions in the UK; but here a first thought was to hire one of those 'impact guns' (made by Hilti or Ramset etc.) that explosively fire a nail through the wood stud into the wall behind. I've seen attachments to half inch thick steel, poured concrete walls and concrete floors etc ...... etc. To brick I'm not sure about?. Presumably you select the type of cartridge and the length of the fasteners to suit the job also taking into account the depth of penetration required. Here I would head for a tool rental shop and get their advice, maybe even practice a couple of times. Understand that you must keep face of gun absolutely flat on the work surface to avoid the 'nail' ricocheting off at an angle and use other sensible safety precautions. Perhaps the occasional attachments might not work first time; perhaps hitting a weak section of mortar or a 'spall' in a brick and not holding. There are many types of nails, studs, threaded rod fasteners available. I've seen Ramsets used safely in a working equipment area. Each of your wooden upright studs probably needs, say four such fasteners. Renting such a gun costs the equivalent of about ten quid a day; the explosive cartridges say 50 pee each and screw fasteners 25 to 50 pee each. However I've just called a knowledgeable local rental shop and they advise not using the ramset method because brick here (where brick is rarely, if ever used, except for a decorative none load bearing facing or internal chimneys, in residential construction) even new, is generally too unreliable; especially if any weight such as shelves is to be mounted on the walls. They suggest to drill holes into the brick using a carbide tipped drill; each expanding fastener would cost somewhere between 50 cents and $2.00 Can.(Roughly say 50 to 80 pence and then a long screw/bolt through the wood stud into the fastener. I used four of the small expanding fasteners to mount an external TV antenna on a chimney in windy Liverpool UK in the 1950s and it stayed there for at least ten years. I would also investigate using construction adhesive, maybe in addition to the drilled fasteners. Even if the wall is a little uneven small wedges and/blocks could be used and that modern stuff after a minute or two holds like the dickens. (I've even used it on a slide in truck camper subject to twisting and road vibration with great results. The studding and plaster board will reduce the usable space a bit; I've seen some of those smaller UK garages! So would suggest against building another entire wall inside the existing one. If affordable, perhaps use plywood for the lower two or four foot portion of the wall instead of plasterboard cos. it resists damage? Two (Canadian) cents from here. Ex-scouser.

[N. Thornton]

put horizontal wood strips onto wall, just like sole and header plates, but then attach the uprights differently. Put them onto the _front_ face of the top and bottom pieces, instead of between them. Probably as clear as mud... heres a sideways-on view then: _ _ |_| | | | | | _| | |_|_|

NT