Hiya I have a semi with ancient aluminium double glazing that looks taty and I'm think of replacing What are the pitfalls of DIY double glazing and do I need to be aware of any regulations? A quick Google gives quite a few suppliers that appear considerably cheaper than the likes of Everest et al. Anyone done this?
Thanks
You may well have standard sized windows/doors and can buy them off the shelf, cheaper than tailor made so check this out first. (eg Screwfix)
The frames have little stength and are easily distorted you have to be accurate and buy the plasic packing pieces.
Fixed windows are dead easy. With openers you have to be sure to fit the packers that support the glass units in the frame dead on to stop them "drooping" in hot weather. The glass give the window frame it's stength and shape. Top hung windows are pretty easy.
The bigger the door/window, the harder it is to get it right. Double doors are a PITA.
You need to have opening windows big enough to climb out if there's a fire. You won't break the glass unless you have a hammer handy!
uPVC - I recommend making sure you get frames with internal steelwork. Much nicer to work with and much stringer. Non white *tends* to have steel to compensate for the darker uPVC heating up in the sun. White by default often has no steel (unless specified for a load bearing bay window) but can be bought with steel.
The hardest part is:
1) Measuring - take 10mm off all round the measured opening size (will fill with foam and sealant) and check the openings are square. 1b) Do 1) again and preferably again. You cannot take anything off uPVC to "make it fit". 2) Frame fitting is easy enough. Glazing is not - it's not hard, but there's a lot of non obvious stuff regarding glazing packers and knocking the beads in.Suggest you watch some youtube vids first.
I or many others will be happy to elaborate further on any point.
You can get a really good result and it's not really that hard - but if you're new to uPVC, research it a bit first - or watch a pro in action (I was lucky I did).
Plenty of regs. B-) They ought to be all in the relevant part of the building regs on the planningportal site.
*ANY* one will be cheaper than Everest or Anglian. Avoid like the plague. You may have "standard" windows so off the shelf is a possibilty there. If you need custom find the local manufacturer or a fitting company that will do "supply only". They ought to take care of the measuring etc so if it's wrong...FENSA, if you don't use a FENSA fitter you are supposed to involve building control to make sure what you are doing meets the regs. Donno what happens if you don't but what you have done meets or exceeds the regs. I guess the only problem might be when you come to sell and there is no FENSA/BC certificate. But does anybody really worry about that sort of thing when buying a house?
Yes, I changed all my windows and doors last year (more or less single-handed) biggest pitfall will be time taken.
Measure carefully, then measure carefully again ... width brick-to-brick at top, middle, bottom and height left, centre, right of every opening, use the smallest measurement in each direction, and subtract 10mm from that for the window size, it'll seem like a large allowance and you might be tempted to order them tighter, but really you'll create yourself extra hassle.
Come the day when the delivery arrives, and the driver has offloaded at lightning pace and wants a signature to get on his way, make him a coffee, then tell him in no uncertain terms you'll be inspecting each side of each pane of glass individually for scratches and won't be signing a thing until you're happy --- a few weeks later during fitting I discovered a scratch on one pane which I know for *certain* was done during transit but the company refused to accept that, in the end it was a small pane and I paid their cost price to replace it, as I couldn't live with having a scratched unit, but still bloody annoying.
Make sure the combination of frame and sealed units do comply to relevant energy ratings (doesn't have to be A rated argon filled gold plated etc)
make sure all your openings have a lintel above them (take photos) make sure you order toughened glass in all locations where you should (they'll get kitemarked)
As you're fitting yourself you won't get FENSA approval, but you don't need that -- you can either get them signed off under a building regs application, or just wing it, at any future sale of house you might be asked for fensa docs, or building regs sign-off, or need to pay for an indemnity policy, or you could get a retrospective approval at that point (those photos might come in handy).
I found a cordless sabre saw very handy for chopping out the old wooden frames, not sure if that will be true for old alu frames.
in terms of fitting, start with the smallest ones with smallest number of openers first, work your way up to doors and large windows with multiple openers. Don't expect to fit more than one or two per day, internally glazed and beaded windows means you can do the upstairs ones from entirely within the house.
I used a set of windbags
to align and hold the frames for drilling and fixing, without those it would be far more of a two-man job, as it was I just needed a bit of assistance with hauling the largest units into place.
also buy yourself a decent foam gun, decent sealant gun (PC COX), white rubber mallet for knocking the beads in.
Those are *neat* - Wish I'd had some (it was a 2 man job!)
A pair of glazing shovels:
cost bugger all and are *very* handy. However some wooden wedges would also work.
Also - make sure the frame company give you enough bridge-packers. Glazing packers are easy to buy an assorted job lot. Bridge packers are hard to buy "just a few" and ideally should match the frame (not essensial, just easier).
Get some frame packers and nice frame fixings (I like Fischer). The frame packers allow the frame fixings to be done up tight without bowing the frame. Screwfix do all of this stuff.
Solicitors will ask. I doubt most buyers will actually care though and it is not a legal requirement - it's just a part of the standard set of questionnaires.
You do need to becareful at bay windows though, I have heard quite a few horror stories, and not all from diy jobs either, of leaking around the top and even of the roof piece collapsing in one case. I'm sure most would realise there are structural parts here though.
Brian
My thanks for the advice, some really good tips there and I shall attempt a small downstiars loo windows as a try out. I did look at the Fensa sight but it looks to be aimed at registered fitters with no mention of DIY. I haven't spoken to my local BCO on the basis of letting sleeping dogs lie. A house sale is highly unlikely, if ever, so no worries there. Again thanks to all
That was the idea ! ;)
i bet they could be used for plenty of other things besides fitting windows,
stick one down your trousers at a night club and inflate it when any bird comes near, pack out the bra of a trannie.... or diy uses too i guess :)
I've seen an AA/RAC bloke using one to "gently" force a locked car door.
The BCO who signed off my extension checked that the coating was on the outside of the new windows although he admitted that it wouldn't make any difference in practice.
I watched an RAC man break into a car with one of those when the owner* had locked the keys inside - dead easy on frameless doors and apparently works on many fully framed doors too without noise or damage.
Mathew
(*Okay, I admit it - it was me)
Which it?
The coating is useless. No difference to getting things signed off. Having that coating inside or outside doesn't matter.
I'm under the impression that coating in is not a Good Idea, something to do with exploding DG units?
/ Which it?
The coating is useless. No difference to getting things signed off. Having that coating inside or outside doesn't matter.
I'm under the impression that coating in is not a Good Idea, something to do with exploding DG units?/q
Presume the rest are referring to "Low E" ? What are you on about?
Jim K
We had our old DG, which I put in, replaced with new a couple of years ago. I priced up DIY, national installers, then found a local small installer to give a price. The latter's price was not much more than DIY, so I gave them the job.
It was over and done with in 2 - 3 days, whereas I would have taken much longer. Had I done it, I would have been standing the cost of any errors.
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