In message , chris French writes
I always push the pipe home and then back it off just a bit, otherwise you can be tightening against the pipe rather than compressing the olive into the pipe IYSWIM
In message , a writes
Or ... removing the trap under the sink, and then turning on the sink tap to clean it out
DOH !!! - been there
Or draining the S bend into a bucket - then tipping the bucket down the sink. Made oi laff.
Hi,
Good point, do you need to use PTFE or jointing compound at all?
cheers, Pete.
I've never used it on compression joints
Well, in a late follow up to my original post...
For various reasons, sink still isn't plumbed in. At the moment, I've just got the pipework terminating in service valves (the ones with the little balls in). Everything has been fine, no leaks anywhere.
Got up this morning to find a small puddle on the floor. Water was coming out of the top of one of the service valves. I twiddled it slightly with the screwdriver and it stopped. Not very happy with that, as I'm sure you can imagine.
Has anyone encountered this spontaneous opening of a service valve before? Needless to say I'm a bit scared by the whole thing and I've left the water turned on today.
Maybe I should just get my a*se in gear and plumb the sink in :-)
Jon
Are you sure it wasn't just slightly open when you left it and it's taken several hours to leak enough water to fill the cup and spill over (assuming it's vertical)? I've been helping a friend with his bathroom and we've left several of these valves in place with no problems at all.
They don't normally leak provided they're turned off properly - with the slot at right-angles to the flow direction.
If you're worried, fit short temporary outlet pipes with push-fit end caps on. That will put off the evil hour a bit longer!
I've had them leak when the nut isn't tight enough to stop the valve moving round independently which, depending on the direction, has the effect of undoing the nut slightly. They never seem to be pointing in exactly the right direction, so it's tempting to just twist them manually.
Nah. Trust in yourself!
I've had this happen before - some of them require very precise adjustment else the weep a tiny fraction. In any-case, you'll have the sink in soon, then there won't be anything to wory about, and if you ever have to change the sink, or taps, etc. then such a tiny amount of water is hardly anything to be undully concerned about.
Just make sure it is coming through the valve and not through the compression fitting, but it sounds like this is the case for you anyway.
Gordon
I don't think so. It's been there for about 4 weeks now (yes, I know, I'm slow - things keep getting in the way of finishing it off!). I can't see it taking that long to start overflowing and then to have formed a puddle overnight. But I suppose anything is possible. None of the others have caused me any problems.
J>
"Jon" wrote in news:cjtt2e$4ul$ snipped-for-privacy@hercules.btinternet.com:
I wouldn't expect one of those things not to leak a bit - they're only meant to allow you to work on bits downstream.
I put in full bore lever valves, specially if they're out of sight, they give an absolute seal for as long as you like (I recently had a 22mm directly below my cold tank turned off for a couple of months while I put in a new cylinder).
I also remove them wherever practicable (don't tell anyone). There are equally good ways of getting a temporary cutoff, and for longer, as S/S says, cap the pipe.
mike
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