For some reason I had assumed that my 25-yo rads would not be able to produce the same heat as the current models. I have two of something like this (DC) in my lounge.
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theory I have 3,200 BTUs to spare; in practice I can't get the room up to 21. I will come back with a different thread.
Kostas p.s.: Note that they quote for a DeltaT=50 (I guess with condensing boilers in mind?)
> In theory I have 3,200 BTUs to spare; in practice I can't get the room
Radiator design hasn't really changed that much in the last 25 years - except that fins are far more prevalent, which increases the output. Other than that, they simply obey the laws of physics - so the output is a function of the surface area and temperature differential.
Until a few a years ago it was common for radiator manufacturers to quote the output at a delta-T of 60 ('cos it gives more impressive numbers!) but many are now quoting at 50 or less - probably with condensing boilers in mind. [I suspect that they have to, in order to comply with some standard or other].
By all means come back with another thread if you can't make your heat loss calcs, radiator capacity and achieved room temperature stack up.
I was thinking materials may be better. We got two towel rads for the bathrooms. They have no panels or vents, just horizontal tubes and boy can they heat a room!
Towel rads are not actually renouned for giving out much heat - so perhaps yours only have a small space to heat.
As far as ordinary rads are concerned, a white painted rad is a white painted rad. If you raise its temperature to a given value by passing hot water through it, it will give out the expected amount of heat by a combination of convection (mainly) and radiation. If you put fins on it, it will give out more heat due to the increased surface area for the convection air to pass over.
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