Bowing house wall - tie rods?

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Ummm, run, run very fast. Run now.
Seriously, it must have foundations or it wouldn't stil be up.
It's

I remember Fred Dibnah doing this to his house in his tv program. I think you'll find the rods and plates are pretty much of a std size unless it's a castle you're trying to shore up. The plates are about 1 foot in diameter (or they can be crosses) and the rods are about an inch. Two in 8m sounds plenty. A 1 inch mild steel bar will withstand over 20 tons and there'll be nothing like that sort of force pulling at your walls or they'd be down by now.
I read through the thread before posting and the bit about the front porch is worrying. If the walls are bowing but not sinking and the porch is still attached to the walls then the porch must be sinking or something else would have had to crack. I think the porch could well be your problem.
Dave Baker - Puma Race Engines (www.pumaracing.co.uk) I'm not at all sure why women like men. We're argumentative, childish, unsociable and extremely unappealing naked. I'm quite grateful they do though.
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Dave Baker wrote:

Ok, it has some very shallow stone foundations. No deeper than a foot.

Sounds reasonable.

I know - it's puzzled me too. I concluded that the bowing wall must be pushing the porch out with it. I think if the porch was going to sink it would just detatch from the house. I could be wrong.
--
Grunff


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Grunff wrote:

I suppose that might prove a cheap solution. Take down the porch and build a decent foundation under it. Then rebuild it, and it can act as a buttress to prevent further movement of the wall!
--
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John.

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What are you waiting for - are you skint? a cheapskate? stupid? naeive? .........
Get a structural engineer in fast. It will cost around 175 to 400 or so, for a visual inspection, initial prognosis and advice for further inspection and/or cure.
The longer you leave it, the more chance of having to rebuild the wall than using simple metal strapping.
I would get the engineer 1st - before involving your insurance co.. You may not need, or want, to bother with insurance.
This is not Do It Yourself - you need the correct paperwork to satisfy a surveyor when you sell.
--
Richard Faulkner

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Richard Faulkner wrote:

None of the above. I'm ... laid back.

What is the correct paperwork? This is exactly why I posted my question.
--
Grunff


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I was being a bit tongue in cheek <g>, but you wont know when it moves the millimetre from needing strapping to needing rebuilding.

A Structural Engineers report with diagnosis and requirements.
A builders invoice for completion of said requirements
A Structural Engineers Certificate or letter of satisfaction with the work.
--
Richard Faulkner

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Boy am I glad this is not my problem. The above advice is all sound. Don't make a move until you have had good professional advice and don't do anything until it all agrees.
A 30 year old house will be sitting on a concrete pad if there is no rock to base a foundation on. It's pretty nearly total building practice in the UK these days. Inspection is going to be a problem if you have cavities that have been filled with heat insulation. Inspection means taking a brick or block our of a corner and looking inside. Obviously tere are high tech ways of doing it these days that do little damage. I don't know what they are.
If the problem is not the foundations then it is almost definitely the ties. The roof is pushing the wall outwards and the floors are holding it all back; the joists are countering the force of the rafters only if the walls are tied. Unfortunately, joists are not usually tied into the walls but just rest in situ.
Once it has been established that you are in danger you may be forced to leave. The house may even be condemned. I hope that doesn't happen to you and if the bow isn't too serious this is all the more reason to get it surveyed ASAP.
--
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Michael Mcneil wrote:

It's 70 years old (1930s), no concrete pad, no cavity.

Not sure about the roof theory. The wall is bulging most at 1st floor floor level, not 1st floor ceiling level.

As I said, rebuilding wouldn't be such a bad thing. As long as it's justified.
--
Grunff


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Grunff wrote:

Mm. Its not taht hard - acrows remove and replace basically.
Is it timber or brick?
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The Natural Philosopher wrote:

If we did rebuild, we'd build the new house about 20 yards away from the existing one, then knock down the old one.

Stone. Lots of chunks of granite, with *lots* of lime mortar in between.
--
Grunff


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Grunff wrote:

Lovely. If you do rebuild, and need a shoulder to cry on, give us a shout :-)
I also discovered I can do a good job on design, apart from the structural bits, which I left to the architect..Someone asked me 'who designed your house?' and after a lot of thought, I realised that how it looks and how it works is entirely me, but how its built is 80% the architect, 5% the structural engineers and 25% the blokes who built it.
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The Natural Philosopher wrote:

Oh don't you worry - you're already on my list :-). Thanks.

There's a bit of me which would really like to rebuild - it'd be nice to get exactly what we want, rather than a big compromise. However, there's another (bigger) bit of me which would like to save 80k. So I'm kind of hoping we're forced down the rebuild route, but unless we have to, it's unlikely we'd do it.
The thing about our place is that the spot is perfect - 16 acres of south facing slope, with the house slap bang in the middle of it. That's why we were quite happy to buy it despite the awful state of the house.
<
http://ixxa.com/alchey/hi.jpg
The blue line is our boundary, and the pink dot in the middle is the house. We've no intention of moving, so we just have to figure out how best to use what we have - whether it's rebuilding or fixing up the existing house.
--
Grunff


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Hope you've got a ride on mower.
Christian.
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Christian McArdle wrote:

You need a graden to use one of them - we haven't made a garden yet. Just yard and fields.
--
Grunff


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Grunff wrote:

OOh. Can I come and shoot rabbits and fly model planes there please!
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The Natural Philosopher wrote:

Model planes - anytime. I do plenty of that. As for rabbits, SWMBO would have a blue fit. Very animal friendly, and very gun-unfriendly. Besides, the cat eats most of them.
--
Grunff


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Can I come and shoot at the planes then? ;O)
Take Care, Gnube {too thick for linux}
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Grunff wrote:

Oh? Haven't seen you on uk.rec.models.radio-control.air?

I'm animal friednly too. I *love* pigeons and rabbits. Stewed.
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The Natural Philosopher wrote:

I'm not a serious flyer - just mess around with a variety of cobbled together machines. I think I may have posted on there a while back about ducted prop helis, something I'm still working on.
--
Grunff


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wrote:

Try a more tempting offer such as taking a model /helicopter and flying it upside down over Grunff's fields. He doesn't have one of those sit-on mowers and might welcome the grass being cut. ;-)
.andy
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