I have a Bosch dishwasher with aquasensor (model #sgs5632ff/01).
It is in a second home in a hard water area and is infrequently used.
Having been left for quite a long time, It doesnt fill up properly to begin with, though this is probably more due to the feeder pipes clogging up.
Once the water starts to feed through the wash program cuts out mid-way through. This happpens most often on the normal cycle. The prewash cycle tends to work OK.
We have tried cleaning the dishwasher filter, running descaler through and putting descaler in the end of the outflow pipe where a sensor box seems to be but to no avail.
Have you checked that the unit is level. We had a similar problem with our (non-Bosch) dishwasher and it was simply because we hadn't levelled the machine when we moved. Apparently there's a float cut off switch inside and this was causing the 'fault'
Where do I start? We've got a Bosch S712 from 1988. Stopped working ages ago (same symptoms as yours!), got into washing up ye olde way, then I decided to get my hands on a 2nd hand copy of the Haynes dishwasher manual - e.g.
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(no connection - just where I got mine for a little over postage money).
My first question is how is your house plumbed for cold water? All our water comes directly from the main (it is not tanked). Therefore the dishwasher gets starved of water if you run a downstairs tap, run the washing machine at the same time, etc. It _doesn't_ like that (from experience the day before yesterday). It then refuses to take in any more water until I fix it as follows:
Isolate water and electricity. If it's the same construction as mine, you will need to look below the door hinge gap (door closed), remove screws, remove lower fascia panel. Get the "kick-strip" off which sits behind that panel (1 screw per side). Thin plastic panel behind that - two screws along bottom edge, pull panel downwards, wiggle side to side and the hooks at the top come out.
Next, mains cable on the left - unscrew LNE terminals and put cable aside. Unscrew 3 screws holding the water input valve bracket so it is loose (note earthing tags under screws). Right hand side of bracket - two screws need to come out around where the water inlet hose unscrews (same as at the other end of the pipe going to the appliance tap). Use pliers to loosen the spring clip thing (bit like a jubilee clip) on the wide pipe on the other side of the valve. Finally there is another (thin) pipe round the back of the valve (similar pliers clip). Remove that, and the input valve should be free. Unclip the spade terminals at the top (note colours of wire going to each). Unclip the polystyrene "flood protection" float that cuts off the water if the base of the machine ever fills with water, preventing a major mishap.
Now remove the valve from the machine. The way I tested it was to remove the inlet hose from my washing machine, connect it to the screw connection on the inlet valve, make sure that the float switch arm at the bottom is pulled fully down, place it over a sink (next to the washing machine, and supply mains power to the spade terminals via insulated female spade connectors. If power on =3D gushing water, it's a good 'un. Put it back in the machine, and it works again after water starvation issues. (Could have been a problem due to an air bubble).
Whilst I was in the 1st time, the base tray was rusty, so off it came (more complex, 2 person job!), then wire brush and white Hammerite. Outlet hose was split slightly (hence rusting) - Screwfix counter supplied a new one for =A33 (didn't need the red elbow joint anymore from the waste sump thing).
Hard water ain't the issue and descaler won't touch the inlet valve anyway. Only works on the heater I suppose.
(1) You say its not filling properly, if it has not got enough water in it the heater will not switch on but the dishwasher will still wait for the water to heat before moving on.
(2) You are in a hard water area, has the heater burned out, the Program will again stop waiting for temp rise.
(3) Another common problem is the control loom passes under the door and is constantly bent and strained every time the door opens, eventually one or more wires break and again the machine can stop mid cycle.
(4) Unfortunately there are loads of problems that will give the symptoms you have, I have just listed the common ones.
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