Boiler time - or else parts for a Worcester Bosch 280 RSF?

Boiler is dead 8-(

The long-serving Worcester Bosch 280 RSF may have finally shuffled off its Python sketch.

The most minor fault ever - a minor weep on the push-fit O-ring fittings wh ere the diverter valve fits onto the backplate. Normally these are held in place by a couple of stainless (sic) hairpins and just pull off. However a slow leak on one has caused the hairpins to rust in place. As a result, I c an't pull them out or remove the valve to fix the seals.

In a sensible world, I would now rip the diverter valve out with a crowbar (destroying the pin housings) and buy a new one. However parts for the 280 are getting scarce and it seems that the last diverter valve has left the b uilding.

We also need a whole new bathroom. This has been needed since we moved in, but tuit shortage...

So, options:

  • Easily fix the existing boiler. Not going to happen.
  • Fix the boiler by gambling hundreds on the collectible valve dealers of e Bay and hope that a valve swap is enough.
  • Buy new boiler. Have new boiler installed. In a year or two's time, rip t he bathroom to pieces around it. I don't like the idea of that
  • Build new bathroom and install new boiler now. Before Christmas.

Of the lot, I'm now inclining to the latter. It gives the best result and t he money is there to do it - just a bit lacking on tuits and enthusiasm for a big project. I'm also not working at present, owing to a laser cutting business, the Christmas rush period and an expensive and £4k slow-to-repa ir blown laser tube (like I care about boilers at the moment! 8-( )

So, my question to the panel is twofold:

  • Anyone got a magic bodge-o-fix? Doesn't have to last forever.
  • If I buy a new boiler, what's the best? Efficient, capable, RELIABLE.

The house is a 3 storey Victorian with two of us. Not moving anytime soon. No water storage (hot or cold). Electric shower and staying that way. Pitif ul insulation. Heating is currently '70s-'80s (?) microbore. Bathroom needs to support a Giant Copper Bathtub (we already have this - looks like somet hing from a brewery). Kitchen is mostly coldwater feed as it's out the bac k and takes ages for the water to run hot down there. At some future point the rebuilt megakitchen might get a nice wooodburner, but it's just too mu ch plumbing to face integrating that to the main water space heating.

Thanks!

Reply to
Andy Dingley
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Location is wall-hung on an inside corner, with balanced flue through the w all to a big flat outside wall. Exhaust is easy, although there's nowhere s ensible for a condensate drain, so dumping that internally into toilet cist erns etc. might be the best option.

Reply to
Andy Dingley

The long-serving Worcester Bosch 280 RSF may have finally shuffled off its Python sketch.

The most minor fault ever - a minor weep on the push-fit O-ring fittings where the diverter valve fits onto the backplate. Normally these are held in place by a couple of stainless (sic) hairpins and just pull off. However a slow leak on one has caused the hairpins to rust in place. As a result, I can't pull them out or remove the valve to fix the seals.

In a sensible world, I would now rip the diverter valve out with a crowbar (destroying the pin housings) and buy a new one. However parts for the 280 are getting scarce and it seems that the last diverter valve has left the building.

We also need a whole new bathroom. This has been needed since we moved in, but tuit shortage...

So, options:

  • Easily fix the existing boiler. Not going to happen.
  • Fix the boiler by gambling hundreds on the collectible valve dealers of eBay and hope that a valve swap is enough.
  • Buy new boiler. Have new boiler installed. In a year or two's time, rip the bathroom to pieces around it. I don't like the idea of that
  • Build new bathroom and install new boiler now. Before Christmas.

Of the lot, I'm now inclining to the latter. It gives the best result and the money is there to do it - just a bit lacking on tuits and enthusiasm for a big project. I'm also not working at present, owing to a laser cutting business, the Christmas rush period and an expensive and ?4k slow-to-repair blown laser tube (like I care about boilers at the moment! 8-( )

So, my question to the panel is twofold:

  • Anyone got a magic bodge-o-fix? Doesn't have to last forever.
  • If I buy a new boiler, what's the best? Efficient, capable, RELIABLE.

The house is a 3 storey Victorian with two of us. Not moving anytime soon. No water storage (hot or cold). Electric shower and staying that way. Pitiful insulation. Heating is currently '70s-'80s (?) microbore. Bathroom needs to support a Giant Copper Bathtub (we already have this - looks like something from a brewery). Kitchen is mostly coldwater feed as it's out the back and takes ages for the water to run hot down there. At some future point the rebuilt megakitchen might get a nice wooodburner, but it's just too much plumbing to face integrating that to the main water space heating.

Thanks!

A plumber told me that about 3 years ago he went to a very old sectional boiler in a church. Seems that one of the section seals on the boiler was leaking. He poured some leak fix stuff in and the leak stopped. Maybe worth a Goggle??

Reply to
Mr Pounder

these lists one worth an call/email unless you have already

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Reply to
Mark

Yup, I sympathise with that - took a similar plunge about this time a couple of years back. All I can say is that its worth it in the end!

Fernox LS-X applied externally around the leaking bit is probably the best bodge. (possibly bound with something for support)

WB, Vaillant, & Visseman seem to be the current crop of recommendations.

So powerful combi - perhaps with a tiny unvented cylinder in the kitchen somewhere heated from the CH side.

Splitting into separate heating zones might be worthwhile. Weather compensation with an exterior temp sensor is nice for better comfort year round and better fuel savings during the "part load" bits of the year.

Reply to
John Rumm

You can get WC connectors with an inlet for a small waste pipe built in. Ideal for that kind of application since its pretty well guaranteed never to freeze.

Reply to
John Rumm

I like the idea of dumping it into the toilet cistern, particularly if it internally overflows into the pan (extra volume flush for free) and also if you're in a hard water area, the mild acidity will counteract the hard water scale which will help keep the pan cleaner.

Reply to
Andrew Gabriel

Ex-wife's oil boiler failed a while back when I was house sitting.

A cork did it for a week!

Reply to
Andy Dingley

replying to Andy Dingley, david walker wrote: I need a diverter valve for my Worcester 280 part no. 87161424210

Reply to
david walker

replying to Andy Dingley, david walker wrote: Hi I need need a diverter valve for a Worcester 280rsf part no. 87161424210

Reply to
david walker

The part would appear to be obsolete - you would probably have to try and find something similar and adjust the pipework) or extend it outside of the boiler) to make it work. While its form factor is bespoke, the actual function of it is fairly generic.

Reply to
John Rumm

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