Boiler Question

[Ed_Zep]

I've got a conventional floor mounted boiler that's about 15 years old. Recently, the pilot light has refused to light. Most likely it's the thermocouple.

However, I was wondering if it's worth replacing anyway. Ordinarily it's worked fine but whoever installed it put paving slabs underneath and this seems to be bridging the damp proof course.

So, to my questions.

Can I do a straight swap to a new conventional, floor boiler (is it legal?).

Typically, how much would a refit cost, assuming no new pipes?

Thanks, Ed.

[metcas]

We had a similar problem, it was the joints between the cast sections leaking and making the pilot damp, I needed to use a blow lamp to light it !! If I kept the boiler warm all the time then the pilot kept dry and did not go out!! A replacement wall hung condensing boiler with minimal pipe alterations came out at just shy of =A32000 fitted. Steve

[Owain]

Unless you can claim exemptions, you will probably need to replace it with a condensing boiler, which will need a condensate drain. You may also need to update your controls eg thermostatic valves on radiators. You will have to make a Building Regs application for this work under Part L - energy efficiency.

You are allowed to do your own gas work provided you are "competent".

Owain

[Ed_Zep]

Thanks both,

Ed.

[A.Lee]

What exceptions could you claim to fit a Combi boiler? A chap I was working for today wants a new boiler, but definitely wants a combi rather than a condensing. Ta Alan.

[Roger Mills]

I think you're confusing the terminology somewhat! Combi and Condensing are not mutually exclusive.

A Combi boiler has a facility for heating the domestic hot water in (near) real time rather than storing it, as well as heating the CH radiators. A Conventional boiler has only one primary circuit (which can be zoned into DHW plus one or more CH zones) and is used to provide *stored* DHW plus CH.

Either can be condensing or non-condensing. Only condensing boilers meet the latest energy efficiency requirements. To be allowed to fit a non-condensing boiler, you have to show that it is not feasible to fit a condensing boiler - usually because of no access to a suitable outside wall, needed for the condensate drain.

The chap you mention should be able to have a condensing combi boiler.

[Owain]

You, and he, confuse condensing and combi.

Any new boiler will probably have to be a condensing boiler, which is simply a more efficient type of combusion technology.

Whether it is combi (instantaneous hot water) or used with a stored hot water system is irrelevant.

Owain

[A.Lee]

Oh, right, he wants a combi to save on keeping a cylinder full of hot water, which will lose its heat during the day, so the heat will need to go on when he gets home to get it hot again. I had misunderstood the regs, and had assumed that condensing boilers were all the 'stored hot water' type, rather than included the instant combi boilers. Alan.

[Owain]

A well insulated cylinder should keep the water toasty hot for, ooh, 3 days?

Owain

[Ed Sirett]

Indeed so. Any greater heat loss would not be compliant with building regs. Insulating the pipes nearby is a significant part of getting this right.

[jgharston]

I can confirm. I've just had my 28-year old boiler replaced with a new, condensing boiler, which feeds my central heating and stored hot water tank.

Cost about 1200 pounds.

-- JGH

[Dave Plowman (News)]

A properly insulated cylinder will retain hot water for far more than the working day.