Bathroom Ceiling

[Steve Walford]

Anyone care to share there experience of fitting pvc cladding to a bathroom ceiling

Thanks

Steve

[Andy Burns]

Hmmm, somehow I don't think I fancy molten/burning PVC dripping onto me.

[The Medway Handyman]

I've fitted it to my kitchen ceiling if that counts? What did you want to know?

[djc]

I've done it. Avoids the problems of peeling paint. Easy enough once you have all the hangers level and in the same plane.

[Stuart B]

In a new build would that meet Building Regs .I was thinking of the fire risk if the kitchen went up in flames .

[EricP]

Fine except if you get condensation you will get big cold drips on you because of the irregularities in the surface.

Looks quite decent though.

I take it you are thinking of the board that looks like T&G normally used for soffits.

[Grumps]

It seems quite a big industry, I'm surprised more people haven't used it here.

Do you mean stuff like this

?

I fitted some cladding (white with mirror strip inserts) about 4 years ago. I think I've wiped it down once in that time. It never seems to drip with condensation, probably because it is a warm surface (well, warmer than the window).

It was installed to 'hide' a flaky uneven ceiling. And installation is straighforward. A wooden frame (around the perimeter, and several lengths perpendicular to the direction of the cladding) is fixed to the ceiling. I used, hmm, was it

2"x1/2". I screwed this in and adjusted the screws to get the frame as level as possible. Fill or pack between the frame and ceiling. Then you have your starting base. Around the perimeter you fix (nail) a 2" wide 'C' section. This is quite flexible, and the cladding boards fit into this, so you don't see any cut ends.

The stuff I used is about 6" wide with grooves each side; and a small tongue (it's not really a tongue 'cos it doesn't go in a groove) on one edge. Cut the cladding to length. It's easy to cut, but make sure you don't scratch it with a jigsaw base. Insert the first strip into the 'C' section and nail (I used brass nails I think) the tongue to the wooden frame. Insert a mirror strip (which forms the tongue) into the groove. Repeat with the remaining boards.

The last board is the hardest to fit as it has to fit in the end 'C' section AND the penultimate tongue/groove. The idea is that you push it deep into the 'C' section, and then pull it back into the last groove. I think you can buy a tool especially for this job; A narrow bar with a flat hook on the end, but it was suggested that one is easily made from a bit of old copper pipe, bashed flat, and then a small (3mm) hook fashioned on the end. You push this tool between the board and bottom of the 'C' section, hook it over the board's edge, and pull.

I think that's about it.

[djc]

Were talking bathrooms here. Anyway the stuff is fire retardant etc. Got mine from <

>

[djc]

Mine is suspended on rails with a chromed L section around the perimeter. I found glueing the L section to the tiles with gripfill type stuff was easier than drilling tiles. The last section is covered by the L section so is a little short of the full length and it is easy to tuck it in and then slot it in place. [view from below <

>

Condensation is not a problem. I don't beleive in cold bathrooms.

[Grumps]

Actually, it's only a 1" section, now that I've looked at it. 's funny how in reality things are smaller than you imagine!

[Stuart B]

TMH wasn't .

[John]

Nice room

[The Medway Handyman]

So was mine. It replaced polystyrene tiles so I made sure :-)

[Steve Walford]

Many thanks for those who replied, the pictures were good and have given me plenty of ideas