Attach Fence Panel at 45 Degrees to Post

[TheScullster]

Hi all

Looking at the proposed fence/gate arrangement around my property, and wondered whether there was an easy (usual) method for attaching a fence panel and gravel board to a post when there are angles involved. The intention is to have a straight run alongside the boundary ending in a single panel at 45 degrees (approx. in plan) to this run. The other end of the skewed panel would form one post for an access gate. So, the panel between these posts would (viewed on plan) span from the corner of one post to the corner of another IYSWIM.

How is a neat and sturdy attachment made between panel and post in this case. Ideally I am looking for the clip type fasteners so that this panel and associated gravel board can be removed to provide wider access if required.

TIA

Phil

[Bob Mannix]

Two posts at either end, one pair just for this panel, the other two for the end of the straight run and for the gate. That would be the straightforward way of doing it and would give added rigidity at the end of the long run and for the gate banging. You can always get infil sections made to tidy up the gaps later if you want.

[The Medway Handyman]

Good idea that Bob. Would Arris rail fill the gap?

[TheScullster]

"Bob Mannix" wrote

Thanks Bob

My concern with this is that it might end up looking a bit industrial for the location. Also important that the post pairs are bang on vertical in all planes to avoid looking ugly.

Phil

[Bob Mannix]

Phil (& TMH) Well you could get a post sawn down the diagonal and fix a piece to each other post to give a 45deg surface but then the fixings may fail with time and there's a thin edge to rot etc., and it wouldn't be

*that* less industrial. The inside corners won't look too bad. You could try Arris rail (if it's 45deg), or get a post sawn as above and use that (automatically the right size, if the posts are set at 45 to each other). If you set the posts as pairs, you could fit them with 45deg packing and nail together while the concrete sets to make sure they stand as a pair. Probably best to get one post sawn diagonally and use that to pack, reinforce and set the pairs of posts.

[meow2222]

Would sawing the corner off a 4x4 post to give a 2" wide 5th side be ok? Care needed with saw positioning. Or if you want heavier, use a 6" round post.

NT

[TheScullster]

wrote

Would sawing the corner off a 4x4 post to give a 2" wide 5th side be ok? Care needed with saw positioning. Or if you want heavier, use a 6" round post.

NT

Thanks NT What I didn't make clear in the original post is that I intend to use concrete posts for longevity. The only other option I have thought of is gettting brackets made to fit to the corner of each post which present a "U" clip to retain the 45 degree panel. Methinks that Bob's twin-post-at-each-end ploy is likely to win this one

Phil

[meow2222]

That sure changes things. Assuming you're not willing to make your own custom posts, how about bending a heavy duty 90 degree corner brace to

135 degrees, and fitting them to the post, one each side of the fence panel, then the panel just slots in between them.

NT

[1501]

Try getting a regular post cut in such a way a 22 1/2 degree cut passes through the post centre. Turn one piece end for end and screw the two together with some PU adhesive for good measure.

[TheScullster]

wrote

That sure changes things. Assuming you're not willing to make your own custom posts, how about bending a heavy duty 90 degree corner brace to

135 degrees, and fitting them to the post, one each side of the fence panel, then the panel just slots in between them.

That sounds like a plan! Aesthetics may be a governing factor here. This is a subject on which I am not allowed to make decisions! Will have to defer to SWMBO - either brackets or double posts it is! Are these concrete posts drillable OK?

Phil

[The Medway Handyman]

SDS works OK, try to avoid the rebar.

[meow2222]

Maybe best to use resin fixing, that way the rebar will retain the full depth of concrete covering, the concrete surface won't spall due to forces, and the result is rather stronger. If you dont use enough resin to buy a =A310 cartridge, a pack of poundland araldite will do several holes (but leave it 24hrs before loading).

NT