Advice sought on opening a 'broken' safe

I suppose expecting the manufacturers to help on a £90 safe was asking a bit much. Try:-

1) Pressing the 9V battery in hard and/or waggling it around a bit. If this is a PP3, the press-studs often lose their grip. Or you may have a dry joint between the holder and PCB. If so, a soldering iron applied to the battery contacts might remake the joint from outside. If you put an ohmmeter across the battery contacts (try the probes both ways round) you should see a few hundred or thousand ohms, not an open or short circuit. 2) Pressing the buttons hard. If they're the rubber-coated-with- graphite type like some calculators/TV remote controls, the graphite wears thin. But you've got to get the usual signs of life from the electronics first. 3) Forcing the handle round by extending it with a lever -- bit of pipe or pair of wood/metal bars clamped either side. 4) Getting a cold chisel under the safe enough to lift it 1mm off the joist to hacksaw the bolts might be better than levering it the whole way.

Chris

Chris, I have just checked with a meter and the external battery terminals are open circuit. Sounds like you've been here before? You are suggesting a soldering iron on the terminals in case there's a bad joint on the inside. Worth a shot. Ger

Reply to
ger
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Grey moment :-)

Reply to
The Medway Handyman

And not only that it's a duff acronym.. What happened to the 'D' at the end??

Reply to
PCPaul

D A M H I K I J ... duh? Ah! I have it - I Just *Do*.

Andy

Reply to
Andy Champ

From the notch below the "hammer head" to the upper corner of the "spanner jaw"

Reply to
Andy Dingley

It isn not a duff acronym, It's just that the person explained it incorrectly

Dont Ask Me How I Know I Just DO

Reply to
RW

Given that it is fkd and The op *needs* to get the valuables inside AND He's not had any assistance feom the manufacturer it really won't make a lot of difference in the end.

Reply to
RW

A locked safe is far from being "fkd" Even lock-outs are fixable (and regularly so), but there's no need to go overboard on causing unneccessary damage.

Reply to
Andy Dingley

Good thinking!! Thanks for that. Ger

Reply to
ger

OK, here is the final word on this problem. Thank you again for all contributions. Read on at your peril - it is the truth, if embarrassing.

Two days ago I borrow a jemmy, crowbar, sledge hammer and an angle grinder. I am about to start work when I get a call to go and mind my grandchild for

2 days. I down tools but leave a 9 volt external battery connected to the safe.

I get a call from the Phoenix Safe Company - I am impressed with this service. Good guys (gals) They offer to provide the 'drill points' to an approved locksmith of my choice. They will do this over the phone on receipt of appropriate credentials (fax letterhead etc etc) The lady is most helpful. I am still a bit irritated that they made a safe with no plan B and the batteries INSIDE. I have since discovered that later cheap digital-pad safes have the batteries on the outside. Howsomeever - I am impressed.

I return from the family diversion this evening to find the safe emitting a low whistling noise!!!! I rush over to find that the power-on light is ON. After several attempts THE @##?%%* SAFE OPENS. It is now unscrewed from its base and on the way to the tiphead. I WILL NEVER TRUST IT AGAIN. I am about to order a replacement with external batteries AND an override physical key. (Yes, yes, I will have a look at the electronics and likely causes before I bin it. But right now, I am so relieved, I just want it gone)

Ger

Reply to
ger

Chuck it my way! The mechanics and tinwork on those are quite decent and you can easily fit a real mechanical combination lock to it (like a Chubb Manifoil)

Reply to
Andy Dingley

So you left a battery connected to it for ages, then managed to open it.

No angle grinder, crowbar, plasma cutter, sledgehammer?

Where's the fun in that? Put it back and do it properly... ;-)

Reply to
PCPaul

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