Hi, My new Single Electric Oven (2.35Kw) states it should be connected to a 13A FCU spur. If it can be connected to a 13A FCU could you just add a 13A plug to it and plug it into a socket?
Why does the FCU need to be a spurred FCU?
Finally, if I have a single 13A plug socket, could I just run a short spur from that and place my 13A FCU spur next to that socket?
cheers
Possibly they don't want you to take the power for the oven off the main ring circuit. Usually ovens are so power hugry they get their own spur ( direct from the consuer unit ). Yours doesn't sound as though it takes much power, about 10A of current. In theory that kind of load is easily fed from the ring circuit, but it sounds like they are quoting regulations designed to cover more powerful oven/hob combinations.
My info is that below 3kW your oven can be supplied from a ring circuit by an FCU spur, or by means of a 13A plug and socket as you suggest. Andy.
Yes you could, but watch the total loading on the ring, or whatever other circuit is feeding your kitchen. Also bear in mind that the max. ambient temperature for 13 A plugs & sockets is supposed to be 30 deg. C so avoid using plugs in in hot spots such as behind a built-in appliance.
'Spur' 'spur unit' or 'spur box' are alternative names for an FCU. It doesn't mean that the FCU can't be connected directly into a ring circuit - clearly it can be.
Yes.
Also, for such use, go for really good quality plug and socket, not the cheapest bargin in the shed. You can avoid one slight possibility for bad contact by choosing an unswitched socket too for this application.
Sure, we will have 2 rings supply to supply the kitchen, so loading on ring is OK. Socket will go in cabinet next to oven as current one is. Does not get overly hot in there, so again, that will be ok.
Cool, think I will go with plug route, be neater, and easier :)
An oven is a fixed appliance and as such should be connected via a switched fused spur, socket outlets are for portable appliances if it was designed to be on a 13a plugtop it would have to be supplied with one fitted.
Peter
On Wed, 23 Feb 2005 20:50:24 +0000 (UTC), "Peter" strung together this:
No, it can be fitted with a plugtop or wired in via a switched fused spur.
Just because it doesn't come with one doesn't mean there is a problem with using a plugtop. A gas hob doesn't come with a fitted plug, and neither does a cooker hood and these draw a few watts each.
Thats because they are fixed appliance's and needs to be wired via a FCU the only exception that comes to mind is a electric clock thats permitted on a designed for purpose plug connector.
Peter
I was about to post a similar query. Without hijacking the original post, may I seek to expand it please?
In SWMBO's new kitchen the (old) stand alone cooker (4x hot plates
+grill+oven) (45A on rating plate) will butt up against a cooker connection outlet with 45A cooker switch above & to side. It must be capable of being moved sideways and out away from the wall to give service access to a built in dishwasher on one side.Result is a quite long cable which has to be folded over & supported somehow at the rear of the cooker (that's one disadvantage - the other, heat at the rear of the cooker - has already been mentioned above).
Am wondering whether an industrial style (30a or 60A) 3 pin socket might be a better solution. Any opinions please? Or a better solution?
perhaps if there's safety concerns it could be secured by some sort of locked cover as area at the back of the cooker will be readily accessible from the side away from the dishwasher.
On Thu, 24 Feb 2005 17:42:18 +0000 (UTC), "Peter" strung together this:
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