different ways of joing copper plumbing

Hi. Quick question about joining copper pipes and other copper plumbing fixtures. I know sweating is an obvious way, but last year we had to have the shoe on our drain line from our bathtub replaced as it was leaking onto the ceiling in our den. I swear the plumber used some sort of goo (sorry, not a technical term to join the copper drain pipes and the new shoe, I know for a fact he didn't sweat them. I am asking because I have a 1 1/2 inch copper drain line running from my laundry sink, and the tailpiece that connects the drain line with the trap is corroded beyond repair (I can't use an of the rubber sleeves, etc. it is too weak). Is there a way I can join a new one (metal) to the copper drain without sweating it since it is only a drain line and not under pressure like a supply line? Or even better yet, is there a way I can go from the 1 1/2 inch copper to a pvc tailpiece that would connect to the trap? I know there are pieces to go between copper and pvc, but I don't know if they are made in 1 1/2 inch size? Thanks for any help or ideas anyone has.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
"Eric and Megan Swope"
Use what's usually called a "fernco" adapter. Hook on to the drain pipe that the trap ties into, then install a new trap and tailpiece. If your laundry tub is the old cement type, then you can probably put another fernco on the threads that the tailpiece ties on to. Get the 11/2" pipe X 11/2" tubing size. It's probably called a fernco trap adapter. Make sure you cut out the section that's too weak to work with a fernco.
If your plumber used some sort of goo, then he really didn't repair the problem (though, I've epoxyed some things myself before).
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Hey Gusy,
Tell me if this is permanent, or if I should change it sometime. I had to hook on to a meter yoke that was formed out of 3/4" OD copper. I was in a pinch, so I noticed that 3/4" OD slides tightly inside 3/4" ID tubing, so I reamed a piece of tubing and soldered. Then I soldered the 3/4" ID into the ball valve. I turned on the water and everything seemed fine. I even shook it vigorously.
Must I track down a reducing coupling, or will it be fine???
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
can't think of why it wont work.

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
--WebTV-Mail-16838-1 Content-Type: Text/Plain; Charset=US-ASCII Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7Bit
as long as the ends were cleaned well, but not beveled or unevenly reduced, your solution should be fine, and permanent
--WebTV-Mail-16838-1 Content-Description: signature Content-Disposition: Inline Content-Type: Text/HTML; Charset=US-ASCII Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7Bit
<html> <body bgcolor="white" text="black"> <font size="1"> True Compatibility Doesn't Exist, so Shrug off Little Conflicts. </font> <br> <font size="1"> (more at: http://content.health.msn.com/content/article/97/103988.htm?printing=true ) </font> <br> <p> <br> <center> <font size="1"> I like all four seasons..... <br> Almost Summer; <br> Summer; <br> Still Summer; <br> and Christmas.<br><p> I'm part Canadan..... the beer part. </font> </center> </body> </html>
--WebTV-Mail-16838-1--
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

HomeOwnersHub.com is a website for homeowners and building and maintenance pros. It is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.