Wireless Thermostat Installation Issues

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Hi there, not sure if you'd be able to help me with this, but I'm having trouble installing this thermostat unit ( http://customer.honeywell.com/honeywell/ProductInfo.aspx/W8665A1009 http://customer.honeywell.com/honeywell/ProductInfo.aspx/T8665A1002 ) . I have a simple 2 wire system running to a boiler with rads. The thermostat is connecting to the receiver (wirelessly) as per the appropriate blinking lights, and it will make a call for heat for only 10 seconds or so. After that the receiver shuts down the call, but the thermostat unit is still sending a call. I figured that out by seeing if there was power flowing through the return (which only happens for about 10 seconds). I'm not sure if it's a problem with setting up the thermostat unit, the receiver, or the furnace. I can start the furnace if I complete the thermostat circut. I'm not sure where to go from here.
If anyone could provide any guidance I would truely appreciate it.
Mark
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Try moving the transmitter closer to the receiver!
It sounds like... thermostat tells the furnace to light up. Then the electrical noise generated by the furnace is causing the thermostat to loose contact with the base station thereby causing the furnace to shut down.
If it works as intended at close range, you've got a transmission range problem.
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| Malcolm Hoar "The more I practice, the luckier I get". |
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Hi Malcom, I appreciate your prompt reply. My transmitter is about 8 ft from my receiver. The instructions explicitly say it must be more than 5 ft away.
I just called the Honeywell tech support line and they're not very helpful at all.
I spoke with a friend of a friend who's an HVAC guy and he said I should check my flame sensor. He said if the heater shuts down after about 10-30 sec then pull out the flame sensor and sand down teh grime. I'm gonig to do that tonight and post the results.
Mark
Malcolm Hoar wrote:

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Yes, but you seemed to suggest that the furnace was okay if you manually close the thermostat circuit. If so, I'd still suspect a transmission problem -- and still try moving the thermostat/transmitter around since that's a pretty easy experiment to conduct.
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Hi Malcom, I didn't mean to doubt you. I actually just got done fighting with it for another night. I tried your suggestion and no such luck. The Red light comes on solid, I can hear the furnace clicking and doing what it does when I manually close the circut. Before the pilot light is lit, the red light fades away and the furnace does not come on. I'm boggled.
Mark
Malcolm Hoar wrote:

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Okay, well that problem definitely doesn't appear to be related to the wireless thermostat. It's the flame sensor or some other safety device within the furnace.
I saw those same symptons on my own furnace one day last winter during some exceptionally high winds. The problem went away after the wind subsided AND I briefly disconnected power from the furnace to force some kind of reset.
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I should be more specific, the red light on the thermostat receiver. (sigh)
When I close the circut manually, the system does it's thing like it should. When I hook it up to this new thermostat system, things fizzle..:|
Mark
Malcolm Hoar wrote:

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Oh. I thought you meant the red glow from the ignition system.

Well, now it sounds more like a problem with the wiring between the furnace and the wireless base station or tje base station itself.
How is the wireless base station powered? If it's a battery, try replacing it. If it's stealing power from the furnace, maybe it's not getting enough power when (a) the furnace is operating and/or (b) the base station is trying to activate the furnace.
I assume the base station has only to close a circuit to activiate the furnace. Is is doing that? Is it holding a closed state? Does the closed state have a sufficiently low resistance?
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Malcolm Hoar wrote:

The base station is powered by the furnace. That sounds like a good theory. I'll have to test that out. That would explain the light fizzleing(sp?) out.

It seems that the base station is closing the circut, but it's not held in that closed state. I'm not sure how to check the resistance on the line. If it helps, it's a real short run of wiring to the unit.
You've been a great help thus far with suggestions and I really appreciate it. Could I get your opinion on the following? This is the manual (http://customer.honeywell.com/Techlit/pdf/69-0000s/69-1630.pdf). I'm trying to set this up as per figure 2 on page 3. My question is do I have to join Y/W/G and C to the return and R to the hot, or is it just R and C that I should be concerned with?
I've tried both scinarios, but when connecting Y/W/G/C to the return, I can't get the thermostat to connect to wirelessly the base station. When I just use R/C I get the fizzle problem.
I figured 2 wires and I'd have a warm house. That hasn't been the case!
Mark
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Aha, that's your problem. I had the same issue on my thermostat (not wireless, but steals power from the furnace). The solution is that you need to add a resistor across the terminals inside the furnace. Unfortunately I remember neither the value of the resistor nor the specific wiring arrangement. But hopefully that will start you along the right track.
-Tim
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Wow, that sounds complicated! It's looking more and more like I'll have to leave it to a pro. Unfortunately I can't get anyone in there until Tues.
I'm really iritated with the Honeywell support regarding this item. I called them and they said this is a professionally avalilable product and only a pro can call us up for support. I think that's a load of garbage.
I was really hoping for my wallet (and my machismo) that I could take care of the issue.
Thanks for the input Tim
Mark
Tim Fischer wrote:

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It's not complicated, you just need to know the specifics, which I no longer have handy. Mine is also a Honeywell and not only did the manual talk about this situation, it came with the resistor. Mine was a model that's only supposed to be sold to/installed by pros, but I got it off of a dealer on eBay and put it in myself.
Furnace techs are going to be pretty busy right now, so maybe if you called around and got one on the line they can tell you the mystery resistor value and where it needs to go, and they wouldn't be as worried about losing a service call. Otherwise Honeywell support SHOULD be able to tell you this. Maybe if you call and specifically mention the resistor, and demand to be forwarded on to someone who at least recognizes that they sell other models that require this...
-Tim
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Thanks for the input Tim. Unfortunately I didn't get a resistor with my thermostat. Mine is also bought from e-bay and is suposed to be installed by a pro. Unfortunately my manual doesn't mention anything about a resistor.
By my findings, I'm tending to agree with you more and more. Tonight, I had to hook up a wired thermostat just to get the heat on. This thermostat requires batteries, and works flawlessly.
Regarding the call to Honeywell, I did call them and they weren't too helpful. Even when I presented all the facts to the call centre attendant, she told me that I would have to get a pro to call. Rediculous. I'll have to give it another shot though.
Mark
Tim Fischer wrote:

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I should post the solution that my furnace fuy came up with. I had it wired slightly incorrectly. I wired it with the hot going to the R and the return (not sure what to call it exactly) going to the C. These were the original 2 wires comming from my furnace that connected to my old thermostat. My problem was that I should have connected my return to the W terminal and a direct line to the 24v transformer's return to the C. Well that did it. Simple fix.
If you want it to work, just wire it properly..:)
Mark
Mark wrote:

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So you had to run a new wire? Many setups don't have the "direct line from the transformer's return". My setup was designed to steal power through the 'hot' and 'call for heat' wires for setups like mine that didn't have the direct connection to the xformer minus. In some setups like mine, you needed to bridge the gas valve with a resistor so it would maintain current at all times.
Anyway, glad you got it working (and glad I didn't have to run a new wire!)
-Tim
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Mark wrote:

Hi, What do you mean pilot light is lit? I am confused now. What kind of furnace do you have?
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Mark wrote:

Hi, If flame sensor is not working, you'll get trouble code on the furnace. You said manually furnace works!
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Tony: How do I check the trouble code on the furnace? Also, how does the furnace send the trouble code to the thermostat receiver?
Mark
Tony Hwang wrote:

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Malcolm Hoar wrote:

Hi, You mean it is 2 way radio? Thermostat can receive/send sginals to base station?
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Mark Rullo wrote:

Hi, First of all, have you read the whole manual?
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