Window AC Compressor won't shut off

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I have to work it manually. I can hear the thermostat click if I turn it up or down, but the compressor just runs the whole time. The room will get too cold if I leave it run. I can have it on fan only, and turn the thermostat all the way down and hear it click, but if I turn it to A/C the compressor kicks in right away. Could there be a relay in there stuck or burnt together? Thanks, Tony
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I had a bad double capacitor do that to me once on a full size split system. The power for the fan was backfeeding through the capacitor to the compressor.
Need to look at the circuit and start checking things out with a meter. Often the circuit diagram is inside the housing somewhere.
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Sounds like the thermostat is stuck. Or, more correctly, the electrical contacts within the thermostat.
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Christopher A. Young
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On Jul 10, 10:09 am, "Stormin Mormon"

OK thanks, But would I still hear a "click" when I turn it (the thermostat) from low to high? Thanks, Tony
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Yes. The click is the coil pulling the relay armature down, but the contacts could still be stuck solid. Try a new relay, and odds are your problem could be gone.
Joe
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On Sat, 10 Jul 2010 08:17:16 -0700, Joe wrote:

I cant recall seeing a thermostat labeled Low and High. Usually those are fan speed settings. Does the low and high knob you are turning have some extra travel in between the low and high or does it just click from low to high?
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No sorry, it don't really say High and low, It is actually labeled 1-10.
Thanks, Tony
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On Sat, 10 Jul 2010 09:05:19 -0700, snipped-for-privacy@yahoo.com wrote:

Ok that makes sense. If you gave the capacity in BTU/hr and the voltage it might help. If you actually hear contacts clicking and not just some of the mechanics inside the thermostat clicking there might be a stuck relay. I've seen welded shut contactor points on residential compressors so it's possible on a window unit if equipped with a contactor aka relay.
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Yes, Might have just been the mechanics inside the thermostat clicking , I don't know for sure, But I opened it up, and can see a burnt (slightly) plastic piece in there, and can see where the contacts are burnt, although they were not welded together when I took it apart, I can see where they probably were. With the t-Stat disconnected, the compressor does not run, with the wires (2) jumped out the compressor runs. So it looks like that's what the problem is. Thanks for the help. I have to try to find a new T-Stat now, the "Appliance connection" store in town is closed already. This is a Emerson Quiet Cool, Model # 24GD44 and there ate numbers on the old T-stat. See pictures here.
http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc268/mrbreezeet1/Upload%20and%20forget%202/TStat004Save.jpg
http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc268/mrbreezeet1/Upload%20and%20forget%202/TStat008Save.jpg Thanks, Tony

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A good appliance parts store like we have nearby in the Chicago suburbs can probably cross-match the thermostat to another one. Where are you located?
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wrote:

I am Near Wheeling WV. We have a Appliance connection (the name of it) in town I will check with to try to get the best price. Repair Clinic .com has it for $45.00 plus shipping. Thanks, Tony
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OK, so your saying a relay and not the thermostat itself? I will have to get some help removing this unit, as it's pretty big and heavy. I am assuming I have to remove the outer cover/shell. Will there be just 1 relay in there? I should be able to open the relay and see if it's stuck or burnt together. Thanks, Tony

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Stat itself; no relay. Access from front.
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Yes, very possible. You could dissemble, and check for continuity at the stat, and then rotate the knob. See if continuity makes and breaks.
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On Jul 10, 7:31 pm, "Stormin Mormon"

Yeah Good call Christopher, looks like thats what it is, see my post above with the pictures. http://www.google.com/url?sa=D&q=http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc268/mrbreezeet1/Upload%2520and%2520forget%25202/TStat004Save.jpg&usg=AFQjCNEaLteDEY8NKQ2qpaqSmnJaqbeoeA http://www.google.com/url?sa=D&q=http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc268/mrbreezeet1/Upload%2520and%2520forget%25202/TStat008Save.jpg&usg=AFQjCNE5uTex75d8_TjSosZE618_O-zBpQ Thanks, Tony
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Thanks. Nice to hear a kind word, once in a while. I got your picture, but not sure what it was, or what was going on, in the pic. No big loss.
Glad it worked out well, for you.
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On Jul 11, 8:24 pm, "Stormin Mormon"

This is a 220V unit. Do you know If I could swap out the one from a 110V unit I am not using , As long as there are only 2 connections going to it,till I get the new one ordered. I have to get it on line, as no one local carries it. The old T-Stat does say on it;120/277 VAC. Have not looked at the one in the 110V unit yet. Thanks, Tony
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.
Well Maybe I better not!? The 220 Volt unit states; 20/20 FLA 80/80 LRA 120/277
http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc268/mrbreezeet1/Upload%20and%20forget%202/TStatSpec220VUnit.jpg
Where the 110 Volt Unit states 12/6 FLA 60/30 LRA 120/240
http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc268/mrbreezeet1/Upload%20and%20forget%202/TStatSpecs110VUnit.jpg Looks like the T stat from the 110 Volt unit may not be able to handle the amps.
Thanks, Tony
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...
I ordered the T-Stat today from repair clinic.com,and it will be here tomorrow they said. That is quick! I just put the 110 volt T-Stat back in the 110 Volt unit and put it in another window for now. It's nowhere as powerful as the 220 unit, But I can cool the room with the 220 Volt unit (T-Stat jumped out) and use the little one to maintain the temperature.
Question; There is a large capacitor in the 220 V unit, after I unplug the unit, can I just short the capacitor leads to the case one at at time, or do I need to use some type of shunt, like a light bulb. Thanks, Tony
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It's my experience with motor run caps, they don't hold a charge after the unit is turned off. If you're concerned, short the leads to each other, not to ground.
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