I have to work it manually. I can hear the thermostat click if I turn
it up or down, but the compressor just runs the whole time.
The room will get too cold if I leave it run. I can have it on fan
only, and turn the thermostat all the way down and hear it click, but
if I turn it to A/C
the compressor kicks in right away.
Could there be a relay in there stuck or burnt together?
I had a bad double capacitor do that to me once on a full size split
system. The power for the fan was backfeeding through the capacitor
to the compressor.
Need to look at the circuit and start checking things out with a
meter. Often the circuit diagram is inside the housing somewhere.
I cant recall seeing a thermostat labeled Low and High. Usually those are
fan speed settings. Does the low and high knob you are turning have some
extra travel in between the low and high or does it just click from low
On Sat, 10 Jul 2010 09:05:19 -0700, email@example.com wrote:
Ok that makes sense. If you gave the capacity in BTU/hr and the voltage it
might help. If you actually hear contacts clicking and not just some of
the mechanics inside the thermostat clicking there might be a stuck
relay. I've seen welded shut contactor points on residential compressors
so it's possible on a window unit if equipped with a contactor aka relay.
Yes, Might have just been the mechanics inside the thermostat
clicking , I don't know for sure, But I opened it up, and can see a
burnt (slightly) plastic piece in there, and can see where the
contacts are burnt, although they were not welded together when I took
it apart, I can see where they probably were.
With the t-Stat disconnected, the compressor does not run, with the
wires (2) jumped out the compressor runs.
So it looks like that's what the problem is.
Thanks for the help.
I have to try to find a new T-Stat now, the "Appliance connection"
store in town is closed already.
This is a Emerson Quiet Cool, Model # 24GD44 and there ate numbers on
the old T-stat. See pictures here.
OK, so your saying a relay and not the thermostat itself?
I will have to get some help removing this unit, as it's pretty big
I am assuming I have to remove the outer cover/shell.
Will there be just 1 relay in there?
I should be able to open the relay and see if it's stuck or burnt
Yeah Good call Christopher, looks like thats what it is, see my post
above with the pictures.
This is a 220V unit.
Do you know If I could swap out the one from a 110V unit I am not
using , As long as there are only 2 connections going to it,till I get
the new one ordered.
I have to get it on line, as no one local carries it.
The old T-Stat does say on it;120/277 VAC. Have not looked at the one
in the 110V unit yet.
I ordered the T-Stat today from repair clinic.com,and it will be here
tomorrow they said. That is quick!
I just put the 110 volt T-Stat back in the 110 Volt unit and put it in
another window for now. It's nowhere as powerful as the 220 unit, But
I can cool the room with the 220 Volt unit (T-Stat jumped out) and use
the little one to maintain the temperature.
There is a large capacitor in the 220 V unit, after I unplug the unit,
can I just short the capacitor leads to the case one at at time, or do
I need to use some type of shunt, like a light bulb.
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