Water Hammer In Kitchen Faucet

Hello,
Have the typical single-handle Delta faucet in our kitchen.
Has recently in the last few weeks developed a water hammer when turning it such that the cold water is put on. Water hammer only when turning on.
So, I replaced the two springs and rubber "top-hat" gaskets in the faucet that contact the ball.
Still have the water hammer.
Any thoughts on what might be the problem, and what to do about it other than replacing the faucet with a new one ?
Thanks, Bob
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wrote:

    From the description it does not sound like water hammer. I would take a look at the cold water supply from the connection to the faucet to the main supply. Look for a loose or missing support.
    Try holding on to both the hot and cold water supplies under the skin while someone turns the cold and the hot on and off. Follow the vibration or the pipe to the source. You will likely find a loose hanger or some sort of mechanical defect.
If it is water hammer replacing parts of the faucet will not help, you need an arrestor or to dry out the one you have, but that you should only hear when you turn OFF the water not when you turn it on.
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Search this group..Just type in water hammer and you will get your answer as it has been covered MANY times including just recently....
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Robert11 wrote:

I have a similar problem with a 4 month old LDR washerless double handle model 012 3400 Kitchen faucet with spray.
http://www.ldrind.com/Index.html
The hammer in this case is in the spout diverter valve as may be for the OP.
If hot or cold water is turned on water flow through the spout is interrupted as the faucet goes thump thump.
When the spray is pressed and hot or cold water is turned on there is one small thump and the water flows freely through the spray.
Removing the spout and manually plugging the top and rear hole in the spout pipe, no thump.
LDR does not list a replacement diverter valve for a kitchen faucet, IMO there must be one in there.
Alex,
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Problem may not be in the faucet. The cutoff valve under the sink may be the culprit. First make sure the valve is turned all the way on and see if this fixes it. They should be all the way open or closed, never in between. I had a water ammer problem that drove me nuts for nearly a year and found there was a valve hidden in the wall. The hammering started any time the water down stream from the valve was turned on. The noise didnt sound like it was coming from anywhere near the valve. The only way I found it was with the help of a neighbor who was there when the house was built and he remembered the valve in the wall.
Jimmie
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Thanks Jimmie...Google search brought me here. After dealing with water hammer in one bathroom faucet for over a year, I just realized the valve was only on about a quarter turn. With it all the way open/on, problem solved.
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Depending on the type of valve in question, if you have opened it all the way, you should now close it about 1/8 of a turn, maybe less.
You want to have some play in both directions. If the valve is fully open up against the stop and it jams up due to corrosion, you may have trouble closing it. The best practice is to open a valve all the way and then close it slightly, maybe 1/8 of it's full travel, to ensure a little play to the open side.
This applies to most gate valves and angle stops, not necessarily ball valves.
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On 08-30-2013 12:10, DerbyDad03 wrote:

Or due to the water flow changing the temperature of the parts and therefore their size.
--
Wes Groleau

“It is incumbent on every generation to pay its own debts as it
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On Tuesday, February 17, 2009 6:14:03 AM UTC-8, Robert11 wrote:

Do you have a water pressure regulator on your house water supply line and has it stopped functioning and do you know what the water pressure for your house is?
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