Washing machine water valves.

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Am about to get a newer machine. Currently have regular valves at the wall (recessed in a small box). Can I add lever type valves after the existing valves (which are very hard to turn). Also, is that armored hose worth the cost?
Lou
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Lou wrote:

Only if you have an unarmored one burst... :)
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Why not just replace the existing gate valves with a ball valve (lever turn) valve set up. You can buy them as a single lever which turns off both valves at once or a two lever set up. Shouldn't be a problem to replace them, especially for a plumber. Although I'm sure you could jury rig a setup with additional ball valves after the existing valves. The problem with the existing valves is that eventually they get so hard to turn that you don't turn them off between wash sessions and then, when a hose breaks or washer fill level malfunctions, you have to run for the main house valve to shut it down. What's the cost for a pair of steel braid reinforced hoses..$22 versus $12 for the old rubber only hoses? If a rubber hose breaks, it usually bursts open and floods the house, while the steel reinforcement will prevent the bursting, only leaking until you catch it and replace it. The peace of mind would be worth the $10 difference to me.
Tom G
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I don't know anyone who does turn off their valves between wash sessions. Most houses have the valves inacessible behind the machine, you'd have to climb on top of the machine or pull the machine away from the wall to turn off the valves.
I know a few people who turn their valves off on vacation, when the house is going to be unoccupied for weeks, but most don't even do that.
Does anyone actually turn off their valves between every load of wash?
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snipped-for-privacy@phred.org is Joshua Putnam
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snipped-for-privacy@phred.org wrote: ...

Oh, I'm sure there's somebody...
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I can reach mine just fine, but I never turn them off. Of course, I picked up some metal hoses, to me it just seems like a plan. My neighbors didn't, and one of their rubber hoses burst while they were on vacation. That was a hell of a mess.
nancy
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wrote:

I woke up in the morning and heard the water running. I don't know how long it had been running but I'm pretty sure less than an hour, maybe less than 10 minutes, and the basement was a mess. I can only guess what it would be like if I had been at work for 9 hours or out of town for 9 days.
That's when I learned about stainless-steel woven armored hoses, and I use them.
I can't reach my valves but even if I could I wouldn'tt turn them off every time.

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I got a new washing machine a few weeks ago and the installer asked me if I wanted to replace my metal hoses with the rubber ones that came with the machine. Thanks for asking but ... no?

It's just not gonna happen.
nancy
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wrote:

If I were going to make any additional changes to my water system here, I'd try to find some electric valves, normally off, that run on 110 and I'd piggy-back them on the valves that are in the machine. So when the machine turned the hot on, it would also turn the hot on at the faucet. That way, assuming they make good valves, there would automatically be no pressure on the hoses except when the water was wanted.

I guess he things new might be better. You're lucky he asked. I can imagine someone just assuming that new is better, putting in the rubbern and taking the steel with him, not because he's a thief, but because he was taught to clean up when done.

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mm wrote:

Ugh...
Me, too.

I installed on of these and it works beautifully: http://www.plumbingworld.com/automatic_washing_machine_valves.html
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Dave
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Seems to me high rise condos might think of requiring this type of thing. Not a bad idea.
nancy
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wrote:

Looks very good and easy to install.

It is, except I don't want to spend 177 dollars. If I could find the valves, my method would be more direct and wouldn't require extra parts to sense current to the washing machine. I would think simple 110VAC valves are only 20 or 30 apiece.

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Probably the same guy who carries a spare ball point pen, closes the snap open lid on the dish soap every time, washes his hands twice, and changes the battery in the smoke detector twice a year.
IOW, hardly anyone on this planet.
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Christopher A. Young
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I've never turned them off. Never had a hose break.
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says...

that
Never had a hose failure!! Never say never--all you need is to experience a burst hose just once. To me it's down right stupid to expose yourself to all the problems that go along with a hose failure, especially if you're not home when it happens. As advised, replace the existing hoses with the braided metal ones, simple and inexpensive. Next level of protection is to replace both supply valves with a single lever "ball type" shuts off As a minimum, always shut both valves when the machine is not in use. Not convinced?? Just picture what would happen if you're not home when a hose breaks--and one of these days it will. MLD
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As a MIMINUM???? What more would you do if that's the minimum???? Turn off the main supply to the house? Disconnect the hoses entirely? Install plugs in the ends of the supply lines????
I've heard of houses blowing up from gas line leaks. It may not happen as often as a water leak but when it happens its 100 times worse. Do you turn off all your gas appliances every time you leave the house?
I've heard of toasters catching fire, do you unplug your toaster, coffee pot, etc???
Not

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says...

from
that.
a
not
to
a
Minimum meaning if you don't do anything else, at least do that. Having said that, you sound like a real asshole!! Either that or your hat size is slightly higher than your IQ. Hmm, on second thought maybe both apply. MLD
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Tom G wrote:

Possibly because they're in one of the stinkin' little "in-the-wall" cubbies that doesn't have sufficient clearance for the handles would be my reading...had one of them in a previous house--what a pita.
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There are short-lever quarter-turn valves made for just that location, I have them in my house.
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snipped-for-privacy@phred.org is Joshua Putnam
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snipped-for-privacy@phred.org wrote:

The one I'm thinking of also included the "feature" that there wasn't sufficient clearance to conveniently get the hose couplings on and tight as well -- in that case I did essentially what OP is asking about -- I did remove the original valves but I just came out of the wall and replaced the valves outside the box...
--


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