Voltage on one burner

My daughter said she got a tingle cooking, just a mild one, thought maybe h er skin was too dry. Yeah, maybe, but......
I dug out the Simpson 270 and checked. Tested an outlet, 124 V. Tested fr om the hot of the outlet to the sink faucet, about 105, so there's a good g round on the sink. (sometimes you get a plastic pipe and no ground). Test ed to a pan on each burner. Zero volts on 3 burners, nearly 50 on the one she was using.
Replace the burner, you think? Do they go bad over time, and lose insulati on?
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wrote:

... and check the grounding on the stove.
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wrote:

element drooped and grounded out on the oven liner and burned a slot about 3 inches long just like a plasma cutter.
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On Saturday, May 21, 2016 at 8:10:13 PM UTC-4, TimR wrote:

I would not say that qualifies as a good ground. The metal water piping is supposed to be bonded to the grounding system of the house. You should have see ~124 V, you have a missing 20V, which isn't right. I'd check where they are bonded together, do some more measurements, etc.
(sometimes you get a plastic pipe and no ground). Tested to a pan on each burner. Zero volts on 3 burners, nearly 50 on the one she was using.

Isn't there metal supporting and touching the burner? IDK how yours is built, but on mine the burner is held by metal supports and I would think it would be at the same potential as the rest of the exposed metal of the stove.
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On 5/21/2016 8:10 PM, TimR wrote:

The one time a friend got a shock from the stove burner, turns out the three burners were case grounded. The shocking one was not grounded. I ran a short copper wire from the burner to the sheet metal of the stove. No more shocking.
In your case, I'd suggest to shut off the power. Lift the range and see if you can find (and clean and grease) the grounds for the burner elements. Some burners lift right out, and you can wire brush the case ground (typicaly inch forward of the electric terminals).
Or, you could call an electrician and pay someone.
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